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Updated: 6 hours 26 min ago
Terrible Kids Stuff 75mm miniature I finished, called The Birth of Dracula. Thanks for looking.
I was working on the Airfix Buffalo kit with the jeep 'passenger', but I wanted to do the Buffalo as an ambulance vehicle, so I needed to figure out what to do with the jeep, if anything. Then it hit me, why not a Jeep ambulance? A quick internet search produced a score of possible variations on this theme, so I chose one and had at it. The stretcher support frames are plastic rod stock with the exception of the curved one in the front, which is from brass wire. I sistered in a dash panel from another kit as the Airfix one is blank, a different steering wheel and column, brake, clutch and accelerator pedals, gear shift levers and used a different seat as the kit one was pretty plain looking. The stretchers are rod stock wrapped in masking tape with tape straps. The flag was printed from the internet onto regular paper and cut to fit the thin rod stock pole. The extra stowage was from the spares box. The decals were translucent, so I cut out circles of white decal that I applied first, which brightened them up. For an afterthought of a project, I am quite pleased with how it turned out.
This is a MACH 2 Plastic kit from 1992. It really shows its age as a challenge.Throw glue in ,shake around, glue comes back out crying like a baby.
With the help of two members of our local model club (one, a UPS pilot, the other, a recently retired manager for UPS aircraft maintenance), I was able to donate the 747-8F that I had built. The photos below are of the actual aircraft (N608UP). Chris
For this next build I will be using the Tamiya 1/48 A-10A Thunderbolt II and doing a custom scheme as well as illuminating the aircraft. This is a commissioned work for a friend that flies this A-10 in the online flight simulator at the Digital Combat Simulator (DCS) website. The build will be detailed with Eduard photo etch, Eduard Brassin weapons (CBU-97’s, CBU-105’s, and Mk.84’s) and a Master Model gun for the nose. I will also be adding a M32A-60A Generator Unit which is part of the Hasegawa 1/48 US Ground Crew A set (currently on order) this will be used to hold a battery to power the LED’s used in the aircraft. Since I will be illuminating this it will not follow the instructions order of build so that the wiring and fiber optic lines can be installed as needed. I started with the instrument panel. The photo etch set provides an instrument panel as well as a clear plastic with the gauges printed on them. I cut out the center of the kit panel then using Tamiya clear green and blue I colored the certain gauges and sprayed the back side with flat white to reduce the brightness of the LED. I built a light box on the backside and installed a white PICO sized LED. Looking at reference photos there is a large landing light on the inside of the nose gear door. This is not included in the kit. I took a piece of 0.1” styrene rod and drilled into the end to make the back reflector and then cut the bottom lip to run the wires. I used a clear lens from my spare parts bin to cover the front and finally sanded the light case with a tapered back. I am starting to work on the taxi and formation lighting next. You can see more photos and details in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-a-10-thunderbolt-ii-dcs/
This is a 1:48 scale All Terrain defense Pod from Yay Monsters. Super easy to build and paint. Thanks for looking. Parts Almost done. The painting session was also a no brainer. I did look at the Yay site to see what they did, if anything about the painting. I just didn't want it to be this tall skinny white or gray thing. Looking they had little rectangles painted on it as a sort of camo - good enuff! After the white paint base coat, I cut out a smallish rectangle in a small piece of cardboard and started spraying. I ended up using 3 colors of gray. Their rectangles were smaller, but that's OK, I'm happy with mine. After that I saw a video by this guy (I forget his name now) on You Tube where he used a straight piece of cardboard to imitate panel lines. So I added some of that too. Finally taking after the weathering lessons from the You Tube channel Night Shift, I went about added dirt and scratches etc... When this was all done, it looked - too much. I always thought that the Empire would have taken better care of their vehicles, so especially up top, I mist coated some more white over everything. The vehicle is finished. A small base will be added asap. Thanks for looking.
As a newbie, can i get some recommendations on favorite online store for kits. Best selection, price, and shipping etc.
I'm looking for a source for 1/500th scale p.e. pre-painted figures in 1920-ish clothing. If 500th isn't available I'd go for 1/450th. I've googled and have found no 1/500th. Guidance is appreciated.
My friend Mark had Chinese for lunch and got this in the fortune cookie. Dak
Hello everyone, I started modeling about a year ago and joined the IPMS Rum Runners around February. I got my feet wet in the hobby and even submitted my first diorama into a local show. I then challenged myself with a crazy build. I did a 1/72nd scale KV-2 diorama with a full interior. It was my first time doing background research for a model and I got a 3D resin printer to print out interior details. Long story short, the diorama was coming out great. I had amazing vegetation dried from outside, and the tank was the best work I ever made. I then added epoxy resin as water, over-mixed it and ruined the whole diorama. That failure really burned me out and I had a hiatus for about 6 months. During that time I graduated high school, renovated a new place from the ground up all summer, moved, and started college. Now I finally got a dedicated table to modeling in the garage and I've been spending about an hour every night on my next model. I'm really excited to get back into the hobby with a passion to push the boundaries and make the best I can! I attached a few photos of my first diorama and a photo of the KV-2 diorama right before disaster.
According to announcement posted elsewhere. The former kit designer for Monogram Models and designer/producer of his own line of some of the hobby’s best vac-form kits had been in declining health and had recently entered hospice.
Hello everyone, 50yr old man from the Sacramento, CA. Area. I've decided to venture into a new hobby of plastic model building. Military themed models peak my interest especially tanks and battleships. I've only built a handful of models as a young kid but never continued due to finances and growing up. I look forward to learning and meeting new friends. Andy
In an attempt to enlarge my Medusa collection I picked up the offering from Greenwell Studio quite a while ago. Looking for something to build, I dug deep and pulled this out of my stash pile. First thing I noticed was that her snakes were really tentacles. OK... Close enuff, lets get on with it. In the kit there were 3 tentacles that had to be glued on to the head, with no readily apparent place for them. First job was to find an old pic that gave me a clue. Base colors started - Working on the tentacles - Didn't like the purple on the tentacles, and also changed a few other things. Worked on the eyes and of course goofed one of them up. The R eye is a two timer.
Remember when kits had maybe a dozen or so parts? Remember when there were actual instructions that used real words to convey how to put together the model? Remember how nothing fit right? Well, here's a prime specimen. I got this in a sort of 'grab bag' purchase and after a few frustrating outings on more modern kits, I decided to just build it and have a little old fashioned modeling fun. It's OOTB with two exceptions. One is I sanded off all the raised panel lines. The second is that I blanked off the inside of the nose intake so you can't look all the way through the a/c. Fit was as you would expect it, but with careful prep and assembly amazingly little putty was required. The finish is Tamiya rattle can AS-12 Metalic Silver. The decals were way far gone, so I used some from the spares file. Took quite a bit of weight in the nose to get it not to sit on it's tail, but it was fun, didn't fight me and could have been an award winning model at a 1963 model show, which is when the kit came out.
Finished the Fury this week! This is the 1/48 Kittyhawk FJ-2, and is the first really "correct" FJ Fury in 1/48...the older ESCI effort being a mis-mash of F-86 and Fury parts that wasn't really accurate for either one. This KH kit is one of their better efforts...not perfect, but darn close to it. Most importantly, it gives you the separate leading edge slats that were the main difference between it and the later -3 Fury (soon to be released). The kit has a lot of options, with open gun bays, ammo bays, speed brakes; separate flaps, ailerons, and rudder, as well as the option to fold the wings. It also has a complete engine. I elected to build mine with everything closed up and left the engine out. The various doors actually fit pretty well making it pretty easy to close the gun and ammo bays. Despite how the instructions look, you can build the cockpit tub without the gun bay wall parts. The down side to leaving out the engine is having to come up with a tail pipe, unless you cut it off of the engine (I used some plastic tubing). The cockpit detail is "adequate", using decals for the main panel and side consoles. The cockpit decals NEED to be cut up to fit in their positions properly, but the instructions do not show or mention that. I look for someone to release an aftermarket cockpit set that will better address the lack of detail here, as well as the plainness under the canopy behind the seat. The overall fit is good...BUT, you DO need to test fit all assemblies and make some "adjustments" to get parts aligned right and avoid problems. You need to add some plastic shims (ala vacuform style) between the front/rear fuselage halves to give more gluing surface, as there's almost NO positive locating pins/tabs to aid when joining them. The wing fold joints are very good, but I do recommend adding some sort of pins if you build them out (unfolded). The kit doesn't supply anything to strengthen that join when the wings are extended. It also does not include the jury struts to support the wings while folded. Another anomaly is that KH molded the locator pins for attaching the drop tanks to the pylons, but forgot to mold pins on top of the pylons to attach those to the wings! I had to drill and add wire pins for that.... The kit decals (used here, except for the stars) come off the sheet easy and lay down well with a good setting solution. The blue on the kit stars is way too light, so I used some from my spares box. Also, on THIS particular scheme, the red/yellow fuselage stripes are TOO short, and do not come together on the top of the fuselage. Luckily, the open canopy covers that gap (barely)! I used AK Extreme Metal Aluminum overall, with Alclad Aluminum for the wing center panels and some other various panels. This was a pleasant build for the most part, with most of the "problems" coming from closing up panels, leaving parts out, and engineering the nose gear assembly to be added later in the build. It looks like the early FJ-2, and the wing fold option with the slats and flaps hanging down is another snappy look for my shelf. I look forward to getting the FJ-3 kit when Kittyhawk finally releases it! Comments, questions, and critiques welcome, as always. Cheers! Gil
This was my first attempt at building a natural metal aircraft model. I chose to work on a P-47 Thunderbolt because my IPMS Tidewater buds inspired me with their work. Dave built an outstanding P-47N model with 507th Fighter Group markings; the unit with the light blue triangles on yellow tail surfaces. I was also impressed with the natural metal projects done by Scott, with his Lancaster, XP-49 Flying Wing, and his own version of the Tamiya P-47; Bill with his Mig-21, Ki-45, and F-104; and Chip with his Ki-44. If you've ever been to a Region 2 show, or Nationals for that matter, they are a sight to see. "Above the Foe" is the motto of the 78th Fighter Group. My model represents the aircraft flown by Maj Ben Mayo, 78th Fighter Group, 84th Fighter Squadron, Duxford, United Kingdom, in the summer of 1944. The model was important to me because 78th FG now serves as the 78th Air Base Wing at Robins AFB, GA. The 78th ABW supported my unit, the 5th Combat Communications Group, when we had to "get out the door" for an overseas deployment or to support a humanitarian relief operation. They are a fine group of professionals. I built the 1/72 scale Tamiya P-47D model out of the box. In building this kit, I learned a number of lessons; the first one was on the use of Alclad paints. I used aluminum as the base, duraluminum for the elevators and ailerons, dark aluminum for the cowling, wing tips, and gun panels, and burnt aluminum for the lower gun panels...I used Tamiya tape to mask off the different sections, but when I removed the tape, it peeled off the adjacent aluminum base coat. Scott suggested I strip the paint and then wipe down the model surface with rubbing alcohol. It worked. The paint didn't peel anymore, but in the process, the rubbing alcohol took out the putty I used to fill the seams. I had to re-work that effort before putting on the primer. I discovered the different grades of Tamiya sandpaper are great, and the importance of a hair dryer to help decals settle after applying the microsol...this was a hard lesson...bought two additional P-47 models to get the decals because I screwed-up the checkerboard twice on the cowling. I didn't put the invasion stripes on the lower wings and landing gear because, combined with the large national insignia, it would cover most of the natural metal surface I worked on. Did some "research" and there were D-Day aircraft that had the wing markings removed by the fall of 1944....or at least that's my story and I'm sticking to it....
The 1/35th AFVCLUB Centurion Mk 3 in in the winter of 1950 Figures are from Miniart. Stowage is Squadron, cooking gear Miniart. Fire pit scratch work. Snow is spackling powder. Dak
With the national called off, I got busy doing some figure painting. The busts are from Nuts Planet, and Youngs miniatures. The girls with the goggles is Honey Bee and I have no idea what company made her (she was a gift). I cheat and use Archer eyes and some other decals on parts of the figures. I did paint the leopard skins on the Hussars free hand. I do make my own bases. The armor I did with Alclad. The rest is oils over enamels. The Opalinski brothers are real people that are also characters in some books by Eric Flint. Dak
Hi All, Here is my second all metal skin Starfighter, this version is from Dagnang AB in Vietnam 1968. Once again each panel is hand cut from aluminum sheets. This was my first attempt at a real metal skin aircraft, lots of experimenting on this one! I finished this model about 6 months ago.
Completed for the Britmodeller 80th Annie. Group Build The Arma kit was fantastic. Such a well engineered model. Complete out of Box with Uschi antenna only add on Painted with Vallejo Air and over coated with Future and My Hobby GX 113 Flat Thanks for Looking Comments welcome Cheers Bill