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Glad I found IPMS. Just back into scale aircraft after being out of it for 20 years. So far I have built an A-10 and a P-51 in 1/48 scale. A B-52G is next. I actually worked on one in the USAF. Anyway, it’s great to be here!
All, You may have seen the post I have up on FB. I am helping an older Air Force vet who was supposed to pass a couple years ago but is still kicking. He wants to sell most of his collection before he passes so his wife isn't stuck with them. I still don't have a list put together, going to try and work on that this week if I get time. Do have a bunch of pics though stuff has been selling well. Mostly 72nd aircraft with a bunch of 72nd armor and a few old Monogram 48th scale kits and 3 32nd scale 109s. Only car left is a Revell 1/40th scale Beetle from the early 60s. Also an old Revell X-15, Aurora C-119, bunch of FROG, Airfix/MPC, Hasagawa and more. I will attach a few pics and if you see anything that interest you just let me know. My biggest problem right now is tracking down boxes to ship.
I'm curious how many members make up the current membership body?
With the demise of Model Master, I need options for Italian Interior Green, FS 34558; any suggestions?
Earlier in June I tried to find a Standard C-119 Nose to backdate an Italeri AC-119K to a G but was unable to find one. My solution was to vacuum form a nose from a Roden C-123 and cut it down to fit the AC-119. Used three vacuum form noses super glued together to re-enforce the thin vacuum. Worked perfectly. Easy solution to backdate the "K" to a "G."
Hey all. This is one of my current builds, the Trumpeter 1/700 USS John F Kennedy. It's a commission build for one of my EMS Chiefs who was a master at arms in the late 90's. Almost have the carrier itself finished and I'm about to start the aircraft. It was a pretty easy build with the exception of the masts. The only thing I don't like is the Jet Blast Deflectors. There's no option to pose them down.
Hey all. Here are a few of my recently completed builds. The Revell 1/48 F-102, Bandi X-wing, two carrier tractors and two Hasegawa Egg Planes (F/A-18C and MV-22 Osprey).
Hey all! Just joined IPMS and the forums here. Been back into building models for 10 yrs now. I mainly build 1/48 aircraft but occasionally build other things.
Working on commissioned article that is a vignette incorporating a motorcycle cop making a traffic stop on a 24th scale farm tractor and its driver. Problem is that somehow I ended up with a 35th scale standing motorcycle cop instead of the required 24th scale. I know. Stupid, stupid. Worse, I didn't realize it was 35th until I started to position everything on a base. Yeah, REALLY stupid! So far I have been unable to find a standing motorcycle cop in 24th scale. Since figures aren't my strong suit, meaning I'm not familiar with the various figure manufacturers, here I am needing your help. If anyone can help me solve this problem, I would be more than grateful, because without the cop the vignette can't be completed or the article finished. HELP!
I have a Paasche VL airbrush and D500 compressor that I bought probably 30 years ago and haven't used in maybe 15 years. Decided to break it out this week. I took it apart, cleaned it and set it up to spray water. Looks like its working fine, and now to try some paint. But first I have some questions that date back to my last sessions using the tool. I did a search for 'airbrush techniques and basics' but didn't return any relevant results. I've read that 20 psi is a good starting point for spraying pressure. I have my regulator set to 20 psi at 'idle', but I notice that the pressure drops to approx 10 psi when flowing. Is this OK? Typically my paint jobs are not very big so I've only used the open spray cup (1/4 oz.). In the past I would use a pipette to put a couple drops of solvent in the bottom of the cup, followed by paint from the bottle, and then finish with a few more drops of thinned paint from the pipette. (After taking paint from the bottle and delivering it to the spray cup, I put the 'dirty' pipette in a small bottle of thinner, draw some up and put that mixture in the cup.) Then I use a toothpick to mix the paint in the cup. I figure the initial drops of solvent should be the first thing to go through the spray tip if I don't mix it completely for some reason. I would love to hear your comments on this! Of course I have thought of pre-mixing the paint, but this seems like it would waste more paint than I actually sprayed (transferring from mixing bottle to spray cup). I bought an airbrush holder; U-shaped wire thingy, but it seems no matter how I place it in the holder, between the hose fitting on the bottom of the brush and the spray cup, it won't sit like I would like it to, i.e. ready to pick up and use. I need to keep the spray cup off the brush and insert it after taking it out of the holder. Did I just buy the wrong type? The holder that came with the airbrush is sheet metal and actually works great, but it needs to be mounted flat to the work table whereas the wire one mounts to the side and holds the brush above the table. Finally, clean-up. I will usually pour any remaining paint from the spray cup back into the bottle. I have a jar with thinner ready that is large enough to immerse the spray cup and I put it in there to soak. I also have the 1 oz glass spray bottle ready with thinner and insert that into the airbrush and spray into a rag until clear. Paasche's instructions say I only need to remove the needle and clean it, so that takes care of the brush. But that leaves the following items to clean: spray cup, jar that it was soaking in, small thinner jar that got contaminated when I put the paint pipette into it, the pipette, and the 1 oz spray jar I used to clean the brush because inevitably when I remove it some color backflows into the bottle. Plus of course the mixing bottle if I used one. And this needs to be done for each color change. No wonder I haven't used it in 15 years! Am I making a bigger deal out of this than needs to be? Looking forward to your feedback.
Taking a long shot. I ordered & (finally) received Kasl Hobbies 1/48th scale RF-5E detail set. The only problem is most of the information is in Chinese. I checked the website shown on the instructions. The website is all in Chinese with no option for an English translation. The paint call outs are for Gunze Mr. Color which I should be able to cross to Model Master & Tamiya and I think I understand the diagrams well enough that I shouldn't have any problems. It would be nice to have a translation of the instructions. Do any of you read Chinese well enough to translate the attached.
Can anyone help? I am wondering how to resize color templates from 1:350 scale to 1:400 scale for a ship model I am planning to work on. Specifically, I have the Heller 1:400 Gneisenau. If anyone here has any ideas, I would appreciate it. Thank you in advance.
Looking for sprue B of Academy CH-46E “Bull Frog” or the specific part B21 which is the left landing gear. Thanks for any assistance.
Well, I was hoping to have these finished much sooner, but life got in the way a lot. At least I got them done before June ended! Here they are, three Abrams and a Paladin. Revell 1/72 scale US Army M-109 Paladin, Vietnam: Flyhawk 1/72 scale US Army M-1A2 Abrams SEP tank: Flyhawk 1/72 scale US Army M-1A2 Abrams SEP tank with Mine Plow: Tiger Models 1/72 scale M-1A2 Abrams SEP TUSK I: And that's all for now. Thanks all for looking in, comments are most welcome.
Star Trek fans are more than likely familiar with these: The man behind them, Frank (Franz) Joseph Schnaubelt, moved from Chicago to California in 1941, where he applied for work at Consolidated Vultee Aircraft as a draftsman. The sample of work he submitted was a blueprint drawing of a single-engine airplane that happened to be the personal favorite plane of his interviewer. He was hired on the spot. He took a few classes at San Diego State College (aerodynamics, higher math, and engineering), but never attained a degree. FJ worked for General Dynamics for nearly 30 years as a design engineer, both in the aerodynamics and hydrodynamics divisions. His drawings of planes appeared as illustrations in the Collier's Encyclopedia. He was part of a team that built and flew a full-size reproduction of the A-1, the first military seaplane. (He also designed the logo for the A-1 program.) His biggest claim to fame was the design of the bomb pylons on the F-111 fighter plane, for which he was given an award by Convair for cutting costs without sacrificing quality. His services were loaned to other aircraft companies (such as Ryan) by Convair due to his expertise. FJ was laid off from General Dynamics in 1969, 3 years after receiving his 25-year pin, replaced by younger men with college degrees. He always referred to the event as "taking an early retirement," but it was not voluntary. In 1973, he decided to draw the Star Trek props and ships as an intellectual exercise. The rest is history. In 1974 and 1975, these works were published by Ballantine Books as the Booklet of General Ship's Plans (a.k.a. the Enterprise Blueprints) and the Star Fleet Technical Manual. FJ attended Star Trek conventions and book signings from 1975-1983, then withdrew from most public appearances to care for his wife, who was a homebound invalid due to advanced osteoporosis and multiple strokes. He always enjoyed meeting and corresponding with Star Trek fans, and when he did attend conventions, you could always find him in the hotel lobby or on the lounge chairs by the pool, deep in conversation with a cluster of fans, even at 2:00 or 3:00 a.m. FJ died on June 2, 1994 of sudden cardiac arrest. He was only a few weeks shy of his 80th birthday. He remained bright and active, and continued to live independently until the very end; indeed, he was a guest speaker at a local San Diego science fiction convention only a month before his death. The above is taken from a 1999 interview with his daughter, published at http://www.trekplace.com/fj-kdint01.html For more on Mr Schnaubel, see the interview and the following: http://www.trekplace.com/fj-fjwilliamsint01.html (1976 interview) http://www.trekplace.com/fj-fjnewittint01.html (1982 interview) And see here for high-resolution copies of the Franz Joseph blueprints, re-scanned at 400 dpi and cleaned up: https://www.cygnus-x1.net/links/lcars/star-trek-blueprints.php
Apart from the Airfix Bugatti Veyron snap kit more like Lego and a similar Airfix Chiron on its way in 1/24 sca!e no one else has kitted these great superstars with proper plastic kits. Nothing apart from ready made did casts.
There's now a Facebook group for the 2021 Nationals, in case anyone is interested: https://www.facebook.com/groups/270897917458272/ 2021 IPMS Nationals Las Vegas "Very Best of the West."
Over the years, I've pretty much stayed away from figures all together, because of painting flesh. An arm or a hand exposed was ok, as long as the face was FULLY covered. About two years ago, I started incorporating figures in my dioramas. A friend of mine, in our local club, does mostly figures, painted strictly with artist oils. His results are amazing. He's given me quite a bit of info on how he does his. His main advice was to check on YouTube for tutorials. I decided to get my "feet wet", starting with acrylics (some enamels for the eyes). The bust was painted with a mixture of Vallejo, and AK Flesh and Skin Colors. The leather jacket was a custom mix of two different Tamiya browns. I would usually apply a wash to his jacket for depth. I instead decided to drybrush just the high areas. I used Testors Model Master bright brown first. After it dried, the high areas looked more bronze than anything. I toned it down Naples Yellow Hue (artist oils). The cord and emblems on his hat were painted with Tamiya flat aluminum. I applied a dark wash on these items after they dried. The yellow bead around his hat is Testors yellow. The brim of his hat was painted with Tamiya gloss black. Comments and suggestions are welcome. Chris
The following is a joint announcement from the San Marcos 2020 Convention Leadership team and the IPMS USA Executive Board. We jointly appreciate all the feedback we received regarding this year‘s convention. We’ve taken your comments and concerns into careful consideration, while maintaining an ongoing dialogue and negotiation with the Embassy Suites convention center in San Marcos. These negotiations have been proceeding carefully due to the significant financial exposure that IPMS would be subject to if we simply decided to cancel the convention unilaterally. We are now prepared to announce that the 2020 National Convention is officially canceled. While this may disappoint many, including your authors, we believe it is the prudent, safe and sensible thing to do. On a more positive note, we have been successful in negotiating the use of the Embassy Suites San Marcos location for the 2023 convention. Therefore, the rotation for the next three years, circumstances permitting, will be Las Vegas in 2021, Omaha in 2022, and San Marcos in 2023. Tentative dates for the 2023 convention will be August 2nd through the 5th. We are currently finalizing details of the contract with Embassy Suites and expect a finalized version within a week. For those who have registered already for the convention, we will be processing your refunds. For those who have booked hotel reservations at one of the convention center hotels, it will be up to you to cancel those on your own. Vendors will be refunded their money for tables as well through our vendor coordinator, Craig Gregory. Chapters and individuals who have sponsored contest categories may also receive refunds for their sponsorships. Again, we want to thank you all for your patience and support during these trying times, and hope that you recognize we have made the best possible decision for all under the circumstances. For any questions please contact John Noack at: [email protected] Or Len Pilhofer at: [email protected] Respectfully submitted, Len Pilhofer, 2020 Convention Chairman John Noack IPMS USA President
The only 1/72 helicopter I do not have is the Kaman Huskie HH-43B. The Mach2 and Airmodel kits are vacuum-formed and lack details, requiring a lot of scratch building. I believe Italeri has made a 1/72 model. I have also seen on the internet a new model by a firm called Croco Models. Where can I find either of these detailed models?