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Updated: 10 hours 25 min ago
Hey to all. Rejoin after absent for around 40 years. I am a car builder. I did the other stuff long time back, now 1/12 and 1/20 cars. Mostly F1 stuff. Now building kits bought 40 years ago, the original issue Tamiya stuff. I will have questions about all the new after market stuff we never had in the goo old days. Maybe I can share info also. I know a bit about painting and airbrush work. Hope all are well and projects going forward smoothly. Phil
Looking for an Alliance Modelworks 1:350 scale US Navy hatches photoetch set. OOP and not available from the usual suspects. I have found a set of plans of the USS Sphinx (ARL-24) conversion of an LST at the Library of Congress/Historic American Engineering Record https://www.loc.gov/pictures/search/?q=Drawing: va2038&fi=number&op=PHRASE&va=exact&co =hh&st=gallery&sg = true I'm in the process of converting the AFV Club LST to the Sphinx. The hull halves, aft deckhouse, a couple guntubs, and minor details are all that will be left. The rest are sheet plexiglass and styrene strip and sheet. I have started using the Alliance hatch set and would prefer to not change manufacturer & style in mid-bulkhead.
Here is a great tutorial for us landlubbers or those new to ship modeling:
My next build is the 1/48 Hasegawa Aichi B7A2 (Grace) Attack Bomber. It was a Japanese dive bomber/torpedo aircraft with a gull wing configuration. I will be building it as the torpedo version from the 752nd Naval Flying Group. As usual the cockpit is always the first thing that gets built and detailed. I did not like the kit instrument panel and the Eduard gauge film lacked character. So I went online and found two photos of a B7 instrument panel and made a decal of it. I then sanded the kit panel and painted it white. Added the decal then used the top part of the photo etch panel and then painted the knobs and switches as they were on the reference photo. The bulkhead between the pilot and gunner was shaved down and photo etch braces for the seat were added. I then added more photo etch details like replacing the kit pedals with photo etch and replaced the thick pilot seat with the photo etch replacement. The gunners seat had a burlap pad (made with cloth tape) and photo etch seat belts. I added some cables and wires to the cockpit walls and weathered everything with pastel chalk. As soon as the seat is fully dry I will weather it then assembly the rest of the cockpit. Next I will be assembling and detailing the engine and fuselage. You can see all the photos in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-aichi-b7a2-grace-attack-aircraft/
This is another nice little bust I saw on the New Announcements group on FB. It's approximately 200mm and sculpted by Joaquin Palacios for Epica Tales. The model comes in three resin pieces - the bust, the arm, and the column base. You need to supply your own rod connecting the bust to the base. She also comes with her own sticker. It's an excellent sculpt and cast with no bubbles or seams apparent. Thinking Middle eastern I used a flesh that was a little darker than normal. I also gave her dark hair. One other thing is I goofed while drilled the hole for the rod. The bottom cut is a lot more steep than other busts, and in a Aves and a second try. It was right at this point of the build when one morning I heard a bang coming from the attic. I went up to investigate to find somehow a Starling had gotten in. Of course it flew around and landed on the desk knocking the model over and of course breaking the little knife she's holding off. A bird in the house must be bad luck as I don't know whether the bird or the carpet monster ate it, but it's never been seen again. I'll have a cut another out of sheet styrene. I've seen some that give her an almost completely transparent top. I wanted to try something close (never done it before), but maybe not as far as some others take it. I started out by covering all the surrounding skin with Silly Putty. Where the cloth pulled tight I only misted the off white color, and gave a little more coverage by her neck and waist. I added pure white at the tops of the wrinkles, and then lightly brushed on some of the pearlizing paint on the top and bottom for a little extra shine. The part that was the skirt got full coverage. On a different project I noticed that Green Stuff World's metallic paint behaved badly if put on top of a gloss black. But gave a terrific two tone metallic if painted over white. So I painted all the jewelry with white and then used a blue and red. The effect turned out pretty well. The parts that I wanted to be gold got the usual gloss black coating. I painted her lips with V's Cavalry Brown which is a dark red, added a highlight then to match up some of the metallic green I used elsewhere on the model, I gave her green eyes. A little eye shadow and blush from pastels finished off her face. Then I painted up the column base with V's Dark Sand, and pulled out my Mummy bust to remind myself of what I did with that base, then more of less copied it. The column looked a little thin so I found a 40mm plastic base. I glued the column on, and then filled around it with V's ground texture. A wash of Sepia on the sand, and painted the rim a black brown and I was done. Thanks for looking.
There are reports that Rustoleum ceased production of all Testors products today, May 7, 2020. Discontinuance of the Model Master, Pactra, and Aztek brands was previously announced on Testors’ Facebook page.
Thanks for the input about the base color for the ship. The color guide with the kit says to use Duck Egg Blue for the two large panel on the upper aft of the hull and for the large panel on the lower aft of the hull. From all the photos I can find it looks more of a bluish gray color not Duck Egg Blue. Maybe it should be the Intermediate Blue but that looks to Blue compared to what photos I've seen. Don't really want to mess around mixing paints, so wondered what anyone else used for these panels. Eric
This is the Airfix Hawker Sea Hurricane Mk.Ib (A05134). I have finished it to resemble 7L, #V7015, the last operational Sea Hurricane and a participant in Operation Pedestal. The kit is beautiful and went together smoothly. However, it has some important omissions! Sea Hurricanes had a headrest mounted on the armor plate behind the seat. And on either side of the radiator housing was a catapult spool. The kit has spools, D41 & D42, but these are seriously out of scale; and there is no mention of them in the instructions. I had to use pieces from the Italeri kit to mold these pieces to correct the final replica.
I’m attempting to build Revell’s 1/96 Constitution. Is it easier to align and glue the three deck sections before putting them on?
My latest build is the 1/48 Hobby Boss F4F3 'Early Version', which I converted to an F4F-3A. I finished it in the markings of F4F-3A BuNo 3914, the first Navy aircraft to down an enemy plane in WWII. Flown by Lt.(jg) Wilmer Rawie of VF-6 aboard USS Enterpise, he shot down a Japanese Mitsubishi A5M4 Type 96 ‘Claude’ fighter over Taroa Atoll in the Marshall Islands on Feb. 1. 1942. The F4F-3A differed from the F4F-3 in several ways. The engine on the -3A had the magnetos on the rear of the engine, instead of the crankcase, so I used a resin replacement engine front without the magnetos. It also lacked inter-coolers in the wheel wells, so I left these off, and also removed the inter-cooler scoops from inside the cowling. The -3A also had single formation light on the fuselage spine, instead of two as molded on the kit. The -3A also had extra side braces on the windscreen, and one large cowl flap on each side, which the kit correctly provides. To complete the engine, I added thin copper wire to the cylinders for spark plug wiring. I used an Eduard Zoom set to replace the instrument panel and few other cockpit details. I replaced the over-scale kit gunsight with a resin Mk VIII gunsight from Quickboost, and the kit seat with a resin one from Ultracast, with molded-in lap belts. Shoulder harnesses weren’t installed until June of ’42, and the aircraft I was modeling flew combat in February, on the first offensive strikes of the war. I painted the cockpit and lower fuselage tub Model Master Acryl Euro I Dark Green, which to my eye closely matches photos of the dark bronze green color Grumman used early in Wildcat production. The assembled cockpit fit nicely into the assembled fuselage halves. Once major assembly was complete, I compared the kit to photos, and did a side-by-side comparison with my Tamiya Wildcat, and determined the kit sits about an eighth of an inch too high. I cut the axles off and trimmed a bit off the main struts, then re-attached the axles. On my Tamiya Wildcat, I used resin replacement wheels, so I used the leftover Tamiya kit wheels to replace the inaccurate Hobby Boss examples. The Wildcat I was modeling was painted in the blue-grey over light-grey scheme, and these colors have no Federal Standard equivalents. I used Model Master Acryl US Navy Blue Grey for the topside color. Based on photos of the Wildcats and TBDs found when the wreck of USS Lexington was discovered, I think this color is a good match. The bottom Light Grey color is more perplexing. All color references today state that the Light Grey camouflage color is the equivalent of Flat Gull Grey, FS 36440. But, according the noted aircraft historian Dana Bell, they are NOT the same color. Flat Gull Grey has a brown tint, and Light Grey was a neutral gray color, which is supported by the few color photos that exist. I wound up using Camouflage Grey, FS 36622 – not correct, but I think it’s a closer match than Flat Gull Grey. After priming with Tamiya White Primer, I airbrushed on the Light Grey bottom and Blue Grey topside colors. The F4F-3A I wanted to model was BuNo 3914, the first Navy aircraft to down an enemy plane in WWII. Flown by Lt. Wilmer Rawie of VF-6 aboard USS Enterprise, he shot down a Mitsubishi A5M4 Type 96 ‘Claude’ fighter over Taroa Atoll in the Marshall Islands on Feb. 1. 1942. All the fighters on that mission carried two 100lb. bombs. I robbed a pair of these small bombs and their racks from an Accurate Mniatures F3F-1 kit. The bombs come molded with the fins in the + rather than X configuration, so I cut them off and reattached them oriented correctly. I painted the bombs Tamiya Yellow Green, since they came from pre-war stocks and were not yet painted grey or green. The decals came from a long out-of-production sheet of famous Wildcats by Three Guys Replicas. The sheet correctly gives the 9 red and white stripes for the rudder instead of the proper 13, and makes provisions for the smaller, painted-over wing stars when VF-6 applied the oversized national insignia to their Wildcats. Overall, the Hobby Boss F4F-3 kits make fine models, and are great choice to model the first version of the venerabe Wildcat to see combat.
I can log in to the forum but not into the journal indexes? Is the password different? Thank you
Hello fellow modelers! I'm branching out from science fiction builds and trying a WWII piston powered plane, the P-51D. I'm also using the Eduard Zoom PE prepainted cockpit detail set for this model, but I'm not very impressed by it. Don't get me wrong, Eduard makes great PE, but I probably won't be getting the prepainted stuff again. I've had to mask parts of it and the paint peeled right off leaving bare metal beneath it. Fixable? Sure. A pain? That too. The cockpit is pretty well done - I did some light chipping with silver and an oil wash of engine grease over the zinc chromate green. That was my first time using an oil wash I made myself versus a pre-packaged enamel wash from Tamiya. I don't think I'll ever go back, as you have so much more control over consistency and transparency. Plus the oil works as a filter, and doesn't dry splotchy like the enamels always seem to. I plan on hitting the cockpit with some matte clear tonight, then buttoning up the fuselage when that's all dry. If you've got any tips, tricks, or constructive criticism I'm all ears (eyes?).
This one sat around a while til I got around to rigging it. Was trickier than the others due to that middle wing. Not my best effort, but still looks ok. Same deal as the others. Sanded off the decal locators, added a basic interior. Markings are spurious as the kit ones were too far gone to use. I thought the wing alignment would be fiddly, but it actually went together pretty easily.
Not sure if this goes in the Tips & Techniques forum or not, but here goes. Some time ago I was reading a thread about the Model Master line of colors slowly going away and someone mentioned that Krylon made a flat olive drab that you could buy at Home Depot. I was able to find this and it matched both my MM bottle Olive Drab and my Tamiya spray so that was a good tip! So that got me thinking what else might be out there and I bought a couple more as listed below: Krylon Matte Glacier Gray, approx. FS 36628, similar to Camouflage Gray (FS 36622). Rustoleum Light Gray Primer, approx. FS 36300, similar to Dark Ghost Gray (FS 36320). Krylon Matte Vintage Blue, approx. FS 35550, similar to Model Master Duck Egg Blue (FS 35622); Model Master 2 Blue (FS 35414), Flanker Pale Blue (actually a semi gloss) and French Light Blue Gray. I approximated the FS equivalents against my FS595B from 1989 so your interpretation may differ. Also, my 'similar to' suggestion is what I would use as I build only for myself, not competition, so these are 'close enough' for me! I'm sure there are others out there; does anyone else have a similar list?
Having just primed my 1/1000 kit of the Reliant and looking it over for defects, I realized how deep the panel lines on the saucer section are and how deep they would be in actual size. Planning on using Polar Lights Aztec decal sheet and wondered how well the would work on the current surface. So even though it was suppose to be an easy project I now am thinking about filling the panel lines ( as the AMS Borg would say: Resistance is futile) So just wondering what other builders have done. Eric
Rookie and old person trying to build this beautiful model and made the mistake of thinking larger scale models means larger pieces - big whoops there! In the very first step the instructions are telling you to paint the radio black and all of the knobs/dials red. The knobs/dials are barely visible to the naked eye and I quickly realized the need to magnify. Even so, when I simply touch one of them with the tiniest brush I own the color spreads out and it is ruined. Any advice on how to paint these tiny pieces would be most welcome. If this post belongs in a different forum please let me know. Thanks, Stuart
Gil Hodges photos of the AM P-51B he posted recently got a fire lit under me to really start working on this kit. The biggest problem I have currently is lack of work space. It's too hot outside to work in the shed. A TV tray will have to suffice until the temperature drops in about 6 months. The PE is the Eduard set for the Tamiya P-51B but, for the most part it works nicely. The seat belts are put together. I'll install the stick & seat after painting the fuselage. No sense in breaking the stick if it's avoidable.
I am building the US Constitution and am at the point of deciding to build it with Sails or just the standing rigging. Could somebody direct me to where I can find a Video or at least some information on installing the plastic sails. There is nothing that I have found on this subject. Please I am interested in hearing from anybody who has used the Plastic sails supplied in the revelle kit 1/96 scale. I am not interested in making my own as I am to old and have limited resources. Thankyou
Hello, Can anyone help me locate a place to purchase English or multi language assembly instructions for this Lotus 49? If you could use same for FW 14B or 641/2 I have those. Best regards -- Rick Gamble
This is another kit in my stash so long I no longer remember who it was produced by. I'm sure after a few people see this, they will know and tell me. Anyway, I'm guessing it's a 1/10 -15th scale kit that came in 2 parts - the animal and the base. The only thing was that three of it's feet are attached to the base. They didn't line up so you had to do the best you could and then start sculpting with the Aves. You can also see all the repairs made. I really dislike when the sculptor/producer try to "help us out" by getting rid of flash or seam-lines - especially when they are aggressive about it. Base can be seen in the background While beginning to prime in noticed an imperfection that turned into a big bubble on the edge of it's frill. Despite me not liking the scales just being small tube marks pushed into the clay - it did make the repair a little easier to hide. First round of priming revealing more ankle work needed. Was going to leave it at this point, but felt I needed to do a little more... Added a little more color, defined the eyes, and emphasized the muscles a little more. I also added some foliage to the nest material, and also created two bushes to finish it off. Thanks for looking.