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Updated: 16 min 42 sec ago
I'm trying to find a source for Wonder Wire, also known as ceramic fiber for rigging.
It’s the summer of 1916 and the battle at the Somme front continues. Each day, both sides of the trenches send men into No-Man’s Land in attempts to gain an advantage in the stalemate that has gripped everyone in chaos. Artillery, machine guns, and gas attacks have managed to whittle away troops hunkered down in their muddy habitats and despair grows by the minute. Flechettes and grenades rain down from fragile aircraft above the trenches. The Huns have heard rumors of a new rolling terror being designed and looming ahead from the British lines. Words like "armour" and "tank" have been in the wind, but how these things would evolve and what troubles they might bring were still just speculation. Joseph Vollmer, one of Germany’s foremost automobile designers, would eventually be tasked with designing a response to these tanks- which were first introduced in September of that year. However before all of that would occur, a young aide to Kaiser Wilhelm with a mind for science would awaken from a strange dream. Recently, the aide had accompanied the Kaiser on some visits to field hospitals at the front in the hopes of boosting morale. Erich Eisenfaust had witnessed the horrors these men had endured- with bullet wounds, shrapnel, and damaged lungs from gas attacks, these men had literally been through hell. These images stayed with Erich for a long while after and his mind began to try to devise some sort of means of these men to be better protected. In his dream, he saw armoured men advancing on enemy trenches, untouched by machine gun or rifle fire. Encased in their iron suits, they were also impervious to gas attacks. He was reminded of knights of old in their suits of armor and went to the local farrier who was a friend of his. After some afternoon discussions and multiple sketches and designs, they created something that might turn the tables in their favor- the Gepanzert Graben Gehhilfe or “Armoured Trench Walker” i used the MaK Melusine figure as the main resources, but added bits from Wingnut Wings kits to provide WWI period pieces to it, including most of the aerial suit parts. The tavern is from Verlinden and is inhabited with lots of spare parts...
Talk about a blast from the past. This is another that has been on my shelf since 2012! Sculpted by Chris Elizardo, and produced by "Teddy Novak". It came as a one piece bust approx 1:4 scale. With no eyes, It was also another easy one to do. Using the following image, I matched up the colors the best I could. First step, as usual was to get the base colors down - A few days later, I was able to get another session in and get the bust finished. I was thinking about added the snow and what not, but decided to keep it simple. Thanks for looking.
Good evening, Have you noticed that most of the time LAV models aren't really all that dusty or dirty? Particularly the tire sidewalls? Well, I stumbled across an LAV operating in Afghanistan that looks like the paint shop was spraying dust. The tire treads and the sidewalls are pretty much the same color. For what it's worth, here's a photo that surfaced on Quora. Despite the fact that my primary interest is aircraft, this shot intrigues me to the point that I just might try building a model to match.
Interesting video on: https://gizmodo.com/a-lifelong-love-with-flight-led-to-this-mans-record-bre-1838451132 Eric
After finishing the involved Charlie Brown model, I was in need of something simpler. Since it was new, I immediately thought of Good Fellas Resin's new offering- Ep. 4 Leia. Few colors, few parts = perfect. One thing you notice right away is the very good likeness. There was a while there where no kit/toy/action figure really looked like Carrie. This one is VERY good. Clean up was really quick. I found that MicroMarks Panel line Scriber works nicely for getting rid of any flash between the hairs. Base coating and first highlights done. Her costume ended up with 3 different layers of color as did her hair In the final session I was able to add two highlights to her hair. A coat of Satin went over it to give it a slight shine. Speaking of shine, I then used V's Metallics clear gloss, which in my opinion is the "glossiest" gloss out there, and gave the eyes two coats. Her arm nestles into position nicely without glue, so I just sat it there. This removal option will come in handy if and when I need to transport her. The final thing to do was to glue her head in place. With that, I was done. Thanks for looking.
I have kit no. 3584, 1/35 US Military Police Set (WWII motorcycle), that I bought years ago and the instruction sheet is in Japanese. I am looking for a copy in English. Photocopy acceptable. Thank you.
Not many kits of this vehicle around, so I jumped on this when I found it. One tricky part was the car itself is done in two halves, front and back, making for a long seam all the way around the middle of the car. It filled in pretty well, but took some doing to make it "go away" as is always the case with seams on flat surfaces. Also, if you put the provided spring parts on the locators called out, the body winds up way too high. Removing the locators brings everything into alignment, Just noticed that I forgot to paint the search light lens. Oh well. Back to the work bench. Looks nice when done and fills a niche in my modern British vehicles collection.
Dragon kit with some minor additions to make it an earlier production version. Figures are from Warriors and D-Day. Used Fruilmodel tracks. I'm taking this to San Marcos next year. Note all the foot prints on the vehicle. Dak
It was my first time using pigments so I'm not sure I'm 100% happy with the results. The decals are all custom printed. I'm the driver and the bumper number is from the 1st Brigade Engineer Battalion, 1st Infantry Division. Feel free to offer any criticisms. I at least can use it as a learning tool.
Does anyone know of an aftermarket detail set for the engines? Thanks Christopher
Greetings All, In putting together a convention decal sheet for next year’s event, we’re looking for your ideas for Texas-themed subjects. We’ve come up with several ideas for aircraft, but are still researching Texas subjects that might appeal to military vehicle, automotive, ships, space (other than the obvious NASA ties), Sci-Fi, etc. We don’t want to limit the decals to just aircraft subjects, so … put on your thinking caps and let us know what you want to see. Possible subjects might include law enforcement vehicles, naval vessels, race cars, something with a Texas–themed movie connection … use your imagination. Please send an email with your ideas to Rob Booth: email@example.com. Please be sure to note how it fits the Texas theme, what specific kit(s) and scale would be applicable, and include some pictures for reference. Deadline for ideas is December 31, 2019 to allow sufficient time for design and production. Thanks, Len Pilhofer
I just got my first box of True North paint in. Haven't used it yet and know nothing about it beyond their website and a couple of telephone conversations with the company president. I'll let you know what I think about it as I start using it. About all I can tell you right now is that I'll be using it in my next Modelbuilding Guide ebook, I opened a couple of bottles and I like what I see, definitely thick enough to hand brush nicely, still thin enough to airbrush without being prethinned AND it isn't an acrylic. Oh, yeah, one more thing. The FS numbers are on the back of the label in font that's large enough to actually read. Odd place, you say? Well, it beats having it squeezed down to the point you need an Optivisor in order to read it on the front of the label.
Here is a recently completed build. I'm not a very prolific figure builder but I still like to dabble in them with the hopes that each next build might be better than the last. This is a Hi-tech Miniatures item of the Viking god Odinn. It's meant to be a gaming piece but I simply like them as display items.
Greetings All, As expected, the Embassy Suites room block sold out very quickly…in about 4 hours to be exact. There are still rooms available at the overflow properties: Holiday Inn, Holiday Inn Express, and Candlewood Suites. I am having problems with the link Haven Management (owner of all 4 overflow properties) gave me for the Country Inns and Suites. I have a note into their room block manager to get back with me on these issues. So, for the time-being, I am not activating this link on the Nats 2020 webpage. I will activate it as soon as the issues are resolved. As a reminder, we will be running a shuttle service between the four overflow hotels and the Embassy Suites during the entire time of the convention. We envision it running between 8 AM and 8PM daily during all 4 days of the show. Other stops will include downtown San Marcos as well as the Premium and Tanger Outlet Malls just to the south of the Embassy Suites and San Marcos Conf Center. As we get closer to convention time next summer, I will put details on the website pertaining to the shuttle schedule and specific stop locations. Our group rooms coordinator that is managing the Embassy Suites room block for our convention will be sending me weekly reports between now and next July on the number of rooms available at the end of each week. More specifically, as those of you that have reservations and then need to cancel because of various reasons, I will see those rooms at the end of each week. For this reason, I am starting a stand-by list for those of you who could not get an Embassy Suites room but still wish to have one come convention time. If you wish to be on this list, please send me an e-mail (firstname.lastname@example.org) with the subject: “Embassy Suites Stand-by List” and I will add you to my spreadsheet (name and e-mail). I will then send this spreadsheet to our group rooms coordinator at the Embassy Suites at the end of every week. If you are in need of cancelling your reservation at the Embassy Suites please send me an e-mail first (email@example.com) before you cancel online and I will immediately pass your cancellation request to our group rooms coordinator at the Embassy Suites. She will in-turn send you an e-mail with your cancellation confirmation number and then take the next name off of the IPMS supplied spreadsheet and send that next person an e-mail with a reservation number as well as a phone number to call to link your credit card with the reservation number in order to hold the room. For those of you reading this e-mail/post I ask that you spread the word with other members in your chapters so that if they do have a room and are not on my distro or read the IPMS forum, they know to e-mail me if they wish to cancel. As usual, please send me any questions you may have and I’ll do my best to find you and answer. Best Regards, Len Pilhofer
I've been looking for WWII (although stocks were used until the 1960's) AMN66 2000 lb bombs in 1/72 scale. As far as I can find, no one makes any, nor do I know of a kit where any have been provided. I was wandering whether anyone out there might know of a near-sized smaller type bomb in 1/48 or 1/32 scale? As near as I can find, the bomb I'm looking for would have an L.O.A. of real 90.4", which in 1/72 works out to 1-7/16" or 34.5mm. The length of the bomb body only is 70.00" in real life, or 1-1/8" or 21.5mm. The diameter of the bomb body is 23.3 inches in real life or just a hair over 5/16" or 8.5mm or thereabouts. What I am trying to do is substitute on of the larger scales' smaller bombs for the 1/72 2000 pounder. It looks like this (not to scale): I'm wondering if anyone out there knows of a 1/48 or 1/32 scale smaller poundage bom that looks like this at is fairly close to the dimensions given above, that I could substitute for 1/72 2000 pounders. Appreciate any ideas or leads, as I need two of these... Ed
This next build is Hasegawa’s 1/48 scale F-8E Crusader. I chose this so that I can add it to the F-4B, F-14A and the F-5E that I built previously where they all represent the VF-111 Sundowners squadron. I will be using the VF-111 “Mig Killers” decal set from Cutting Edge and the Ares resin cockpit set to complete the details. Starting with the cockpit tub I started with the few photo etch parts then moved on to the detail painting of the fine details. Then the side walls were detail painted. The ejection seat was detailed with photo etch accessories and painted. The dashboard was built from the photo etch and attached to the resin hood. The cockpit was then all assembled. I compared the resin cockpit to the fuselage and started trimming the fuselage to accommodate the new resin cockpit. More photos in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-f-8e-crusader-from-vf-111/
For those Interested it is available on EvilBay and at Sprue Brothers.
I have an Eindekker with no markings and can find no, I repeat, no, aftermarket early WWI Maltese cross decals in 1/48. I found 1/144, 1/72 even 1/24 and 1/32, but no 1/48. Anyone know of any or have a spare set from a kit? If not, this one goes back on the shelf unfinished.
My first Nationals. Had a great time. Made some new friends, and got a lot of good advice from some fantastic modelers. In reference to judging, is it common place for judges to pick up models off their bases to look at them? Just curious. Christopher