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Updated: 1 hour 55 min ago
Is the tour to Huntsville still a go? Mike
This kit is based on the new trilogy of the Planet of the Apes, and it is an excellent story for how it all began. This is a simple kit of two parts the bust and the base. It is expertly sculpted by Mark Van Tine and casted by Paul Gill. It all starts with a black primer. The base looks like it's brickwork covered in stucco, so that the way I went. Thanks for looking.
Hi, My father in-law passed away last November and he had an large collection of over 5,000 1:43 models. Can anyone offer any advice on who we might contact to either buy, or help sell his model collection? The model collection is still with my mother in-law in Western New York, but I'm assuming it could be shipped almost anywhere. I really appreciate any help you might be able to offer. I've attached a picture so you have a small idea of what the collection contains. Thank you, Paul
Inspired with a build started by fellow modeler Bill Dye a few years back, here is my rendition of the prototype RF-84F YRF-84F Build Thread And, here are the finished pics: Again, thanks to fellow modeler Bill Dye, who inspired this build. As usual, it's not perfect, but it's better than the one I had before... Ed
Selling the last released detailing sets of Metallic Details: Detailing sets for aircraft model An-225 Mrija (Revell, 1/144) - $58.25 Sets contain resin and photoetched parts for detailing of landing gears, engines and exterior. Engines for aircraft model An-124 Ruslan (Revell, 1/144) - $10.10 Set contains resin and photoetched parts for detailing of engines. Cockpit set for aircraft model Su-34 (Kitty Hawk, Hobby Boss, 1/48; 1/72) - $24.65 Sets contain resin and photoetched parts for detailing of cockpit. Detailing sets for aircraft model Su-35 (Kitty Hawk, 1/48) - $30.25 Sets contain resin and photoetched parts for detailing of exterior, air intakes and interior. Jet nozzles (opened) for aircraft model MiG-29 (Great Wall Hobby, 1/48; Zvezda, Trumpeter, 1/72) - $23.55 Sets contain resin and photoetched parts for detailing of jet nozzles. Ejection seat K-36D-3.5 (1/48; 1/72) - $7.85 Sets contain resin and photoetched parts to build 2 seats (in each set). Ejection seat K-36L-3.5 (1/48; 1/72) - $7.30 Sets contain resin and photoetched parts to build 2 seats (in each set). British colonial cone tent Mark 5 (1/72) - $23.55 1 pcs. No Assembly required.
Gerald Wingrove, renowned professional car modeller was lost to us this Marcb 2019. Look in news and announcements for more details.
This project has been an on again, off again on the desk for a while now. The kit comes from Zabravka Workshop. It comes in 6 parts. Looking around for a link to share, I can find none. (?) So I have no idea how to find them again... sorry. The parts are very nicely done in gray resin, and shows little signs of seam lines or flash. Ignore the little Medusa to the left. ;) A closeup of the base show a sandy base that reminds me of the volcanic sand that is actually tiny rocks. There are also a number of rocks added to the base which further expresses that volcanic feel. There are two spots for added parts - one is an assumed stone hand holding a spear, and the other being a torso of a stone Hoplite (?) holding a broken sword. I used the V. Metallics steel for the armor, and red to add color. Later on I would add some rust to make it seems like he's been there for quite a while. I decided on this Medusa to give her a regular skin color and natural tail colors. The chest and hip armor was painted gloss black in prep for the V. Brass, and the bow is V's Gold. To add a little snake to her face I gave her the slit pupils in the eyes. The weak point of the kit was the arrow. I was about to replace the shaft with something a bit more sturdy, but then realized I could lean the arrow into the bow and with a dot of glue at the point. This will straighten the shaft. Here she is with my ever present can of soda to give a size comparison. I added the diamonds that are seen on some constrictor snakes, and that completed the figure painting. As mentioned I added a few different rust colors from V's Rust Set to the armor of the soldier and spear. The base was painted in a Black Gray, and then washed with Citadel's Nuln Oil. When that was dry I added 2 highlight dry brushings of a medium and light gray. With that I was done. Thanks for looking.
What parking choices are available near the convention center? Are the lots near the center free? What options are available?
First an update. The Monogram F9F-5P Panther I had started suffered a fatal accident. It fell off my workbench & I didn't see where it landed. Rolled my chair back & heard the crunch everybody dreads. I'll keep it for airbrushing practice. So I started on the Kitty Hawk F2H-2P Banshee with plans to do it in VC-61/VFP-63 markings. The cockpit is almost complete so I started assembling the cameras. I'm not sure where Kitty Hawk got their information on what the cameras look like but, they don't look like any that I've ever seen. I spent 18 of my 22 years of military service working in & managing recce labs. I had the opportunity to get up close to the cameras in the RF-4, SR-71, & U-2. These look nothing like an aerial camera. The 1st photo is the camera set from the kit. The 2nd photo is CMK's resin set 4333 for the Tanmodel RF-84F. The RF-84 flew a couple years after the Banshee and would have had similar if not the same cameras. The kit cameras look like they have lenses on both sides in an oblique orientation. In normal operation, a mission might have had a left & right oblique and maybe a vertical camera. They would not have been mounted on the same station. If this is the biggest complaint I have about the kit, I'll be happy.
This is Matador's resin offering of this APC. Their castings are pretty nice but can get a bit rough and they will never be accused of being "shake and bake" kits as the fit is pretty iffy and there were no instructions in the past few I have done, so guessing what some parts are is fun. But, they offer many subjects that no one else does and when done carefully, they make nice display models. The only thing I did with this one was add wire steps/handles on the right side for roof access. Funny, there were locator holes for them, but no parts and with no instructions, no advice to make them out of wire. Also added the stretched sprue antennae.
Here are the final photos of my conversion of a Monogram F-105D kit into the prototype YF-105A, and here is the Build Thread And for a little comparison, the original Monogram F-105D alongside: If you check out the build thread, you will see that it was a long ride... Ed
I was at a non IPMS style contact yesterday.....one I attend annually....and got into a discussion about judging methods. These guys are primarily figure painters and view models differently than most IPMS members. My acquaintance remarked they were admonished not to be like IPMS when judging; "don't count rivets!". I told him we don't do that and I never have, nor have ever been at a contest where I have seen judges apply such stringent measures. However, he and other still believe this silly myth. They are firmly convinced IPMS are insane for accuracy and will throw out a beautiful work for some trivial point. This is a public relation problem we need to address if we want to sustain or grow the membership. It is not something that can simply be ignored in this day and time with in the age of the world wide web. Like all those internet myths that keep making the rounds, it keeps building until it becomes an established truth in the mind of people who should no better. We ignore it at our peril. Dak
As a former crewmember of USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) - X Division, 1968-69, I Have wanted to build a larger model of her for a long time. The 1:200 scale Trumpeter MISSOURI kit provided the basic starting point for this project. I began in 2012 and finished in March 2019 - the complete build log is on The Ship Model Forum under Completed Models. I am posting photos only of the completed model here with a very brief assessment of the kit and overall project: The 1:200 Trumpeter kit for both MISSOURI/IOWA is, at best, a great idea with poor/fair outcome. The hull (common to both kits) is incorrectly molded and needed extensive rework to get the shape fairly close to what the actual ship was built. The 5"/38 dual gun mounts are incorrect for U.S. battleships (they would work for GEARING/SUMNER class DDs) so these were replaced by Model Monkey dual 5" mounts. All fire control directors/RADARs, etc. were replaced as they were incorrect or didn't exist in 1945. I created approx. 15-20 CAD drawings to fabricate equipment that was scratchbuilt for the model. The both masts and all RADARS/fwd. conning tower were all scratchbuilt or modified from the kit parts. I designed CAD drafted 3 sheets of PE parts which I had Starling Models (London, UK) print for me. Pontos provided a teak custom deck set that I gave them specifications as NEW JERSEY in 1967-69 had obvious changes made that I needed modified from their std. decking set. I also used the Pontos Detail Up kit for MISSOURI. Research included one week at NARA in College Park, MD in order to find additional information on NEW JERSEY as well as other ships. The display board and case I CAD designed/drafted and the case was trucked from Hamilton, OH to my home in North Carolina (what an ordeal!!). The model is 53" overall and the case 60" in length.
Two models completed in one year so far!! WooHoo!!
After a few days of working in the Hobby Room, I finally managed to finish five more models. These are my armor models I finished this month. We'll start with the light stuff first. My Italians took delivery of two vehicles. This is the 1/72 scale ACE Trattore Autocarro Sahariano AS.37: I apologize if this is a bit out of focus. The camera had some difficulty trying to focus on such a small model. This one is the 1/72 scale ACE B-1 Centauro "wheeled tank": When I was putting away the instruction sheet for this, I glanced through it again to see if I missed something. I'm glad I did as there are two machine guns that go up top. I promptly got them mounted to the turret: Oh yeah, that looks much better. Next, my Syrians took delivery of a couple 1/72 scale ACE Hell Cannons: I apologize if these are a bit out of focus as well. The camera had some difficulty trying to focus on such a small model. The US Army then took delivery of the 1/72 scale ACE V-100 armored car: And finally for the heavy metal! My British Army took delivery of a new 1/72 scale ACE Centurion Mk.3 And that's all I have for now. Thanks all for looking in, comments are welcome.
If registering online, do I put family members in the checkout notes? --David
All, Was curious if anyone out there has built this kit? If so, did you encounter any fit issues with the wings to the fuselage? I just started it. It’s MASSIVE. Thanks in advance. Christopher
I'm still at it with these old Aurora WW I biplanes. Found this one at a local show and it's bit rarer than others so I snapped it up. It's the Monogram boxing, so the decal locators were removed from the molds, which made life a lot easier. The only thing I did was add a basic interior and drill out the exhaust pipes and Lewis guns. The kit has a four bladed prop, which was only used on Brisfits with a particular engine. In addition, it has a dual Lewis gun mount, which the gunners did not like as it was bulkier and heavier and more difficult to bring to bear on a target. Anyhoo, here 'tis.
King Brian is a character from the 1959 Disney movie Darby O'Gill and the Little People. From IMDB.com : The kit was sculpted Joe Laudati and came in 4 parts - His head, body, cape and base. While the figure is cast in resin, the base was cast in plaster. My guess is to give the base some weight, and the figure is dancing, and all the weight is on one foot. Looking at King Brian's costume, the main colors are 3 different shades of green, and then an orange tan for the vest. The shoes looked black, but I thought a very dark brown worked as well. The coins (and crown) were painted gloss black in prep for painting them with Vallejo Metallics Gold. The face was next, and it was impossible for me to find out the actors eye color, so I just defaulted for brown. Most all the colors were painted and when I went to glue on the cape, there was some filling needed. So I broke out the Aves and blended it in. To attach Brian to the base I added a rod thru his heel into the base. To save some weight the cater made part of the base hollow. No worries - the rod will still hold. Thanks Joe for autographing this. For safety, I added a rare earth magnet to his sole and the base. A few tries and it worked fine... until I added the cape. With the cape in place, the balance was lost and wanted to tip over backward. I figured I needed another rod, and to play it safe I thought that I should fill the void in the base with resin, and then add that rod. Check back for the conclusion. Thanks for looking.