IPMS LogoInternational Plastic Modelers' Society / USA

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Updated: 3 hours 43 min ago

Frog, 1/72 Corsaire IV

Wed, 02/17/2021 - 15:40
I started working on this as "stuff" dried/set on another model, then got caught up in it as it was turning out pretty nice. Typical Frog kit with few parts and no interior detail, so I painted up the crash test dummy like pilot they provide just to fill in the space. For it's age, it's a nice little kit and was actually fun to build with few hassles or problems.

Pratt & Whitney R-2800 Double Wasp. I find blueprints

Wed, 02/17/2021 - 09:25
Good day! I find blueprints on engine Pratt & Whitney R-2800 (type 21 and 59). How i can find or receive it? My project is model of engine in 32-24 scale. Kagero is not blueprints.

Sentinel?

Wed, 02/17/2021 - 08:26
I am interested in the space theme, but making models of rockets is trivial. I would like to try making my own satellite. Or a space tug. Or another payload for a rocket. Maybe someone has done something similar already? I will be grateful. I like Sentinel-6. But maybe it has already been done, I would not like to repeat it.

Albatros D.Va (Make a Monty Python joke, put $1 in the jar)

Wed, 02/17/2021 - 04:02
This is the Eduard 1:72 Albatros D.Va, finished at Lt. Walter Wolf's Jasta 5 plane from June-August 1917. The kit is OK but it's 20 years old and is missing some details (tachometer and gun mounts in the cockpit, radiator inflow and outflow pipes, etc.). I dressed up the details a bit and then used Print Scale's decals sheets (separate ones for the individual markings and for the Bavarian pattern). If you've ever hung wallpaper, you have a leg up with that Bavarian pattern - not fun applying it across a compound curve, and the entire Albatros D.V fuselage is a compound curve! It's rigged with .1mm nickel-silver "rod" from Albion Alloys, and features some Cooper Details wheels and Mini World Spandaus (although darned if you can see 'em in there!). An article will be in the Journal at some point.

The Duke's Motor Pool in 2021

Tue, 02/16/2021 - 20:32
Okay, I'll start by offering a warning that the following pics are gonna be large, so please have patience. I left them large to hopefully allow for more detail to be seen. Ever since I'd broken the 800-model milestone; I've been wanting to bring my entire collection of Braille Scale Armor down to our Hobby Day Hall and set it up for pictures and display. That would also allow me to add all the armor models I'd finished since the last time I'd set this up in Chattanooga. So, this past weekend, I had that opportunity and was able to keep the collection on display for three days. I gotta say, it sure felt fantastic to see this whole collection all set out on the tables! One good friend also recommended that, as I set up each army or group of armies; I take pics of each one. That was a great idea so, while setting up; I did that. I climbed a ladder to get these shots of all these to make sure I got the best view of all of them as possible. You'll also see that I placed my national flags next to each one like I did in Phoenix and Chattanooga. But first, I wanted to take a shot of all the models I'd finished since Chattanooga. I set them out with the national flags next to each group so I could more easily integrate them into the collection as I was setting up. Here they are on my staging table: Now that you've seen them, here are the individual pics of each army or group of armies going from largest to the smaller ones. Before that, I'll post this pic of all the current German Railroad subjects I currently have finished, This was set up on a 1 foot by 8 foot table: After this, I set up everything else on eight foot tables except for the Middle Eastern Armies as you'll see later. This next pic shows my entire German Army: Following that is my Russian Army which slightly edged out my United States Army in number of models. You can see the Russian railroad models here too: Here is my United States Army and Marines: This pic contains my British Army along with their Commonwealth members; the two Swedish tanks, the French Army, Italian Army and Japanese Army. I included the Japanese here because the Japanese Army is still a bit too small for it's own table. It was easiest to just add it to these European armies since there was sufficient room on the table: And finally, on a six foot table, I have my Middle Eastern Armies which include the Egyptian Army, Syrian Army, Iraqi Army, one Indian tank, and the Israeli Army: Now that you've seen all these armies individually, here they are all together. This is what eight hundred and seven armor models looks like all set up on tables: When it came to that pic above, I extended the ladder as high as I could. Believe me, I couldn't get any higher to shoot this pic or I would have been bumping my head on the ceiling! Here's another angle shot from the ground: And there you have it: photographs of my latest milestone. It's been a long and fun road and so many of you have been exceptionally motivating along the trip. I'm thrilled to have traveled it with you. Hopefully it won't take long till I break a thousand that will be a sight to see! Thanks all for looking in. I hope you enjoyed the show.

1/48 FW-190s...Done 2/27

Mon, 02/15/2021 - 19:20
I haven't done a "full build" here in a while, and these two won't be too extensive, so I thought I'd post this from start to finish....follow along if you like! I'm building these two FW-190s to try to do some Lufwaffe camo schemes. I got a new Iwata airbrush for Christmas with a .2 needle that should finally allow me to do free hand work, mottling, and squiggles; all of which were used on German schemes in WWII. I'm sorely out of practice, and thus these two relatively "quick" builds are meant to give me a chance to do some of that. One is the old 1/48 Monogram FW-190A-5, and the other is the much newer Tamiya FW-190A-3. This will give me two different types that I can also do in two different color schemes. The first two pics show the basic builds of each kit...the Monogram kit in green plastic and the Tamiya in gray. The Tamiya kit is strictly OOTB. The much older Monogram kit needed a bit of help since it had no wheel wells. I used an old Medallion Models resin update set to add those, and also sanded off the rivets and rescribed it a bit to bring it more "up to date". The old Monogram kit actually has a good cockpit for its day. But, only a main panel decal was originally provided, and since it was eaten by silverfish (you should see the instruction sheet!), I had to build a new main IP for it. This shows both of them after their initial priming... This shows the main Tamiya components with the front cowl (a separate part) set in place on the fuselage. This one is pretty much ready to start painting. This shows the Monogram components at the same time, though as you can see, it has taken and will need more work to be ready for painting. Note the the kit engine fan has been cut back so it can be slid into the front of the cowling after painting. Also note the main gear has been assembled and altered to be fit into the wings later...the original Monogram plan was to trap them in place when the wing was built; and they'd be in the way. The Monogram kit molds all the guns and pitots in place on the wing and then tells you which ones to cut off for the version you choose. I chose to cut them ALL off and substitute steel tubing for the barrels and the pitot. The original Monogram main canopy come with a frame and separate clear piece, making for seams. Long ago I put one together and sanded it smooth to make a vac mold. You can see one of my older vac canopies from an old build masked off to be repainted. I also vacked a new copy to go over the kit frame to make a new one. I'll use whichever comes out best in the end. You can also see that the cockpit IP cowling has been painted. It needs the gunsight glass added, and then the windshield can be added and blended in. Once that's done, this one should be ready for painting. The resin wheels are from the update set. The earlier Tamiya A-3 version will be in the earlier Black Green/Dark Green/65 Hellblua scheme using kit decals. The Monogram A-5 will be in the later 74/75/76 (gray/dark gray/light blue) scheme with some aftermarket bright, Eastern Front markings. More pics after the camo has been done! Questions, comments, and critiques welcome, as always! Gil

1/48 FW-190s...WIP

Mon, 02/15/2021 - 19:20
I haven't done a "full build" here in a while, and these two won't be too extensive, so I thought I'd post this from start to finish....follow along if you like! I'm building these two FW-190s to try to do some Lufwaffe camo schemes. I got a new Iwata airbrush for Christmas with a .2 needle that should finally allow me to do free hand work, mottling, and squiggles; all of which were used on German schemes in WWII. I'm sorely out of practice, and thus these two relatively "quick" builds are meant to give me a chance to do some of that. One is the old 1/48 Monogram FW-190A-5, and the other is the much newer Tamiya FW-190A-3. This will give me two different types that I can also do in two different color schemes. The first two pics show the basic builds of each kit...the Monogram kit in green plastic and the Tamiya in gray. The Tamiya kit is strictly OOTB. The much older Monogram kit needed a bit of help since it had no wheel wells. I used an old Medallion Models resin update set to add those, and also sanded off the rivets and rescribed it a bit to bring it more "up to date". The old Monogram kit actually has a good cockpit for its day. But, only a main panel decal was originally provided, and since it was eaten by silverfish (you should see the instruction sheet!), I had to build a new main IP for it. This shows both of them after their initial priming... This shows the main Tamiya components with the front cowl (a separate part) set in place on the fuselage. This one is pretty much ready to start painting. This shows the Monogram components at the same time, though as you can see, it has taken and will need more work to be ready for painting. Note the the kit engine fan has been cut back so it can be slid into the front of the cowling after painting. Also note the main gear has been assembled and altered to be fit into the wings later...the original Monogram plan was to trap them in place when the wing was built; and they'd be in the way. The Monogram kit molds all the guns and pitots in place on the wing and then tells you which ones to cut off for the version you choose. I chose to cut them ALL off and substitute steel tubing for the barrels and the pitot. The original Monogram main canopy come with a frame and separate clear piece, making for seams. Long ago I put one together and sanded it smooth to make a vac mold. You can see one of my older vac canopies from an old build masked off to be repainted. I also vacked a new copy to go over the kit frame to make a new one. I'll use whichever comes out best in the end. You can also see that the cockpit IP cowling has been painted. It needs the gunsight glass added, and then the windshield can be added and blended in. Once that's done, this one should be ready for painting. The resin wheels are from the update set. The earlier Tamiya A-3 version will be in the earlier Black Green/Dark Green/65 Hellblua scheme using kit decals. The Monogram A-5 will be in the later 74/75/76 (gray/dark gray/light blue) scheme with some aftermarket bright, Eastern Front markings. More pics after the camo has been done! Questions, comments, and critiques welcome, as always! Gil

Mr Ed's First for 2021 -- A 1/72 F4H-1 Phantom II Prototype Kitbash of a Hasegawa F4B/N

Sun, 02/14/2021 - 14:38
For those interested, the build thread is HERE Here are a few finished pictures, of a model that I've always wanted, built by kit-bashing a 1/72 Hasegawa F4B/N Phantom II kit, that eventually used NO aftermarket parts, NO resin parts, and NO vacuformed parts. I only used the parts in the Hasegawa box, some decals from the spares box, and of course, some decals printed on my inkjet printer at home. I should mention here that all the needed artwork is provided in the build thread, free for any NON-Commercial use, if you would care to try one yourself. The pictures: Give one a try -- you'll like it! Thanks for looking, Ed

Need some help with AFV Club leFH18/40 kit

Sat, 02/13/2021 - 10:16
The instructions are very vague about placement of part C46 on the gun cradle. I have scoured the internet to find a picture that might show the area of the part on the gun but failed to see it. It seems to be a lever or handle that attaches somewhere to the bottom of the gun cradle. Thanks in advance for any help that can be given.

1/72 Aircraft Models

Fri, 02/12/2021 - 19:54
Now have all my 1/72 helicopter models and working on them. I am still looking for a 1/72 Hasegawa A-1E or AD5. I continually try e-bay and other sites but have found nothing. Also, I am looking for a detailed canopy for a Hasegawa F4E Phantom II.

Fantastic Plastic V Wing

Thu, 02/11/2021 - 21:41
Diving back into my stash, I came out with another Fantastic Plastic oldie but goodie. Due to a C&D, all of FP's Star Wars kits are currently retired. The kit is their their Vector Wing fighter in 1:72 scale. It came in 26 parts of white resin, and one clear resin canopy. for the paintjob it was easier to paint sub-assemblies. Tried to shoot the pilot, but ended up illustrating my light weathering. ???? Thanks for looking.

Revell Ford Bronco

Tue, 02/09/2021 - 18:50
I was in Michaels looking for Flow Aid and I came across this kit in the limited model section. I have done some of the sub assembly and freed the side windows from the frame. I will post more pics as I accomplish more.

Revell 1998 Ram Air Trans Am

Tue, 02/09/2021 - 16:09
I've been wanting to build this car for the last few years and figured that now might be a good time to break it out. There's not much in the way of AM for this kit so it was the perfect one to do an OOB build on. The only things that were added was an "AC Delco" decal on the oil filter, a Hot Rod Magazine in the passengers from seat with a picture of an older T/A on the cover and I robbed the dual outlet exhaust pipes from the Revell 2000 Camaro SS kit. Just couldn't build this car with the single outlet exhaust system like it came from the factory with. The kit wasn't too bad but there were several fit issues with it starting with the chassis to body assembly. For some reason the glue adhesion didn't set up right at the rear of the car resulting in a slight twist. I made some bracing that went from the body down to the chassis and glued that in place to suck the chassis up on the side that got the lower part of the twist. Flash and mold lines were TERRIBLE on this thing. I spent ALOT of time getting rid of those and still didn't get them all. The front and rear facias fit great during the test fit and didn't want to cooperate at all during the assembly process. I got them pretty close however, disassembling the whole friggin' car to straighten everything out. Once I got the chassis sucked up in the back on the drivers side to where it was supposed to be I noticed that now there was a gap between the engine throttle body and the molded in intake duct on the body. I ended up cutting a piece of plastic and carving it to fit the gap there. The only other things that I did with this car that needed to be done was that I lowered it about a scale inch or so all the way around to give it a more aggressive stance and blacked out the tail light panel for a totally bad ass look out back. I'll tell you one thing that I did NOT like though......there are no "Trans Am" emblems on the doors. Hopefully I can find some red Trans Am decals for those.

1:32 F-16, suggestions requested

Tue, 02/09/2021 - 09:41
Here are two photos of the engine build. Please notice the longitudinal gap in both. I worked a long time in making sure mating surfaces were smooth and even but as you can see not enough i guess. I am looking for suggestions for fixing this issue because i want to display the engine on the included dolly. I am also going to buy a USAF tow vehicle i found at an online hobby store. Thoughts please. Stuart

Mercedes 170

Mon, 02/08/2021 - 17:19
This is the MiniArt 1/35th kit. If you are looking for a lot of nice detail, I recommend this kit. The bonnet louvres re molded open and the suspension springs are hollow. Dak

1/35 Tamiya M561 Gama Goat

Sun, 02/07/2021 - 15:47
The M561 Gama Goat was seven years in development until production of the vehicle began in 1968. Its unique name was derived from the creator of its articulated joint, Roger Gamaunt, and its mountain goat-like climbing ability. It was unlike most other military off-road vehicles in that power could go to all 6 wheels of the vehicle, and its aforementioned articulated joint allowed 80˚ pitch and 60˚ roll ranges of the carrier module at the rear. Its excellent rough-terrain mobility was tempered somewhat by problems with tricky handling and maintenance, as well as it being rather noisy, but the Gama Goat continued in service until it was effectively replaced by the HMMWV in the late 1980s. On this occasion, a Tamiya jewel fell into my hands, something different from the usual thing that we hope to see as tanks or cars, the 6×6 M561 Gamma Goat vehicle. It is an uncommon vehicle but easy mount and can be achieved in a weekend. The version that interests me to mount is one already in civil hands that I saw on the internet in a shade of pale yellow. I decided on a base with a semi-vertical section made of paper and plasticine. The construction of the model only took a few hours, which advanced the painting work, achieved on this occasion using Mission Models paints for the base yellow color. The wheels and rims were painted in Tamiya colors and the effects of gasoline, soil, and mud were achieved with Mig Jimenez AMMO products. Replace the headlights of the model, with the product of Sticko, Silver round Dots, which gives a bright touch to the lights and create a more striking effect than those brought by the model. To achieve the pose in the base, I prepared the base with the wet plasticine which covered with clear food wrapping and presses the wheels of the model to ensure its position in the base after drying. After drying, the base was covered with white glue and very fine sand to create the texture. Then the base was painted with Tamiya paint and some bushes were placed as a final touch. The model is placed on the base in the pre-printed footprints in previous steps fixing it with super glue. The whole process took a weekend only and it was a very fun kit to work with.

Revell Harbour Tug Boat

Sun, 02/07/2021 - 15:27
I got this kit on a raffle in a scale model show a few years ago, and after a quick inspection, I put it in a box and forget about it. The mold is only 64 years old! the quality is ugly by modern standards. Although the level of details is decent, you will find huge fitting issues, ejector marks everywhere so I recommend studying very well the parts before assembly if you are up to the challenge. Been saying that, I wanted to make something special from this kit, also different from everything else. I looked for similar tug boats in the tropic zone, like Puerto Rico, Cuba, and the Dominican Republic for inspiration. I also named it after someone very special in my life. Building the Kit After inspecting the plastic sprues, decals, and references, I started sanding almost everything, lots of sanding and a lot of putty for the hull and the boat frame. Pinholes were removed or sealed with putty, except a round of them in the railing side of the boat. I solve the problem using a plastic sheet to cover them. The kit brought some simulate ropes for the sides of the boat, something often used in the 40s and 50s, so I needed a modern solution using rubber tires, but on that scale is a tricky one. My solution came in a weekend play with my kids using a product that is available almost everywhere called “WATER BALLOONS – BUNCH OF BALLOONS RAPID REFILL”. the balloons came with a rubber ring that after cutting simulate perfectly a rubber tire!. For the windows, I use a clear plastic film from a Pasta box glued using the clear glue from Testor. After that, a lot of test fitting is required to make sure the boat hull and tower house fit perfectly in place before starting painting. The painting was done in stages, first the hull using Tamiya Red Hull as a primer, and later adding some orange and red to get the correct mix. The upper area of the hull was painted in white and sky blue. The Boathouse was also painted in white with all floors in gray. I weathered the blue paint of the hull using my airbrush with Tamiya flat white thinned and the red hull was retouched with a mist of light green to simulate algae accumulation. I decided to give a unique touch, and painted the boat’s bridge with a flag from my country (Puerto Rico) and named the ship by my wife’s name. I used different types of cord rope for the details on the lifeboat, rubber tires, and the poles. The final touch was to use a Silver dot from Sticko to simulate the searchlight on top of the bridge’s roof.

1/72 Multi-Aircraft Commissioned Build

Sun, 02/07/2021 - 08:03
As they say, “Now for something completely different”. Typically, I build 1/48 scale aircraft. This will be a multi-kit build log of 1/72 scale aircraft. A client needs some aircraft to hang up for display. He sent me five aircraft to build for him. As noted before, these are all 1/72 scale. They will all be built mostly out of the box with the wheels up. One will have a different scheme, one will be a conversion, all will have pilots, and all five will be in this one build log. The aircraft being built and the order in which they will be built are: 1/72 Airfix Spitfire MK 1a – with different scheme decals than what comes with the kit. 1/72 Arifix Spitfire MK 1a – This will be converted to a MK II using 3-D Kits MK II conversion set. 1/72 Eduard MK IXc – This is the Prolifipak version that include photo-etch. Will be adding aftermarket pilot. 1/72 Tamiya P-51D - Will be adding aftermarket pilot. 1/72 Academy F-35A – The paint scheme will be the newer overall dark gray 1/72 Airfix Spitfire MK 1a – Starting off with the cockpit, it was painted with RAF interior green, aluminum seat, and black instrument panel. The instrument panel has the gun sight molded in the gray plastic. I trimmed this off and used a small piece of clear acetate to represent the glass. The panel has a decal for the instruments. The pilot figure has some good details to it except for the seat belts. I cut a thin strip of Tamiya tape and used this to make the seat belts. Once the cockpit was assembled I detailed the cockpit area in the fuselage and installed the cockpit assembly. The propeller was assembled and painted. Getting ready to assemble the fuselage. You can see all the photos and details in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-72-multi-aircraft-commissioned-build/

Plastic Soldier Company 1//100 (15mm) A10s and A9 in the Western Desert

Fri, 02/05/2021 - 15:47
These are wargamming kits, but are very nicely detailed, especially given their size, and just fall together. They are darn fun to build. The only things I added to these were the fuel lines to the outside tanks and the antennae and pennants. The quarter is there for size perspective.

A Question Regarding The Future of IPMS Chapters in the Age of Covid.

Thu, 02/04/2021 - 23:51
Per recent news reports, I expect federal, state and local regulations regarding Covid-19 and it's mutations to control gatherings of people for the foreseeable future despite the promise of vaccines. I am a registered geezer ; sez so on my property tax bill. and most of the IPMS local members that I have known since the early 1970s are at least a decade or more older and fall into the most at risk category. Generally, chapters held meetings in public buildings and were able to recruit as well as obtain funds via local contests. I just checked the website of one of my local Chicago area chapters and note that there is no mention of any potential meetings for this year due to Covid. I am presuming that the financial may be more of a problem without local contests - while the minimum number of members should not be a problem unless dues from all members cannot cover chapter financial commitments. My question is this: What is the minimum required ( financial payments to IPMS National and number of members ) for a chapter to maintain it's status as an official IPMS USA Chapter?