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Updated: 11 hours 23 min ago
Wayne, who I believe was National Chief Aircraft Judge for many years, has died at age 85. Here is his obituary: Lt. Col., USAF (retired) Carl Wayne Wachsmuth, age 84, of Newville, passed away Thursday, July 9, 2020 at Carlisle Regional Medical Center. He was born August 12, 1935 in Butler, PA, the son of the late Curtis B. and Hazel (Gibson) Wachsmuth. “Wayne” graduated from Slippery Rock High School. He proudly served as a pilot in the US Air Force from 1957 -1987. He flew B-47, B-52 and FB-111 bombers. Wayne served in the Strategic Air Command for over 20 years to include combat missions in the Vietnam War. After retiring from the Air Force he became a licensed battlefield guide at the Gettysburg National Military Park. In his spare time, Wayne enjoyed reading, gardening and taking his restored 1953 MG-TD to car shows. He also enjoyed taking his Scottish Terrier, “Angus” for long walks. Wayne is survived by his loving wife of 52 years, Kathy (Murphy) Wachsmuth of Newville; son, Paul W. Wachsmuth (Glenda) of Waldorf, MD; two grandsons, Logan and Liam Wachsmuth both of Waldorf, MD; sister, Linda McKonly (Steve) of Hanover and several nieces and nephews. In addition to his parents, he was preceded in death by sister, Ruth Wolfe. Professional services are entrusted to Dugan Funeral Home and Crematory, Inc., Shippensburg. Memorial Services are at the discretion of the family. Interment will be in Indiantown Gap VA National Cemetery. In lieu of flowers, contributions may be made in Wayne’s memory to the American Cancer Society, PO Box 22718, Oklahoma City, OK 73123.
Made my reservations this evening....just go to the Vegas website and following the click info..pretty easy and worked first time for me! https://www.ipmslv.com/2021-ipms-nationals GIL
Always on the lookout for the obscure, odd or prototype planes, I found this little gem on the pages of SAMI where the kit was being reviewed. Having gotten these models few times this way, a quick trip to eBay, and I had a choice of a number of these kits. The Sam-13 (Cam-13) was designed in pre-war Russia, and based around Renault 6 cylinder engines. One prototype was built. But this was destroyed as the Soviets fell back against the German invasion of the eastern front. The design was never revisited. It came with 2 sprues of gray plastic, one (mostly) clear canopy, a fret of PE, and a small sheet of decals. There was a few oops' along the way but all in all it was a fun kit. The instructions are the typical exploded views, where the exact location of some parts are hard to determine. The other issue with the kits was that the plastic was pretty fragile. I broke the back off the seat off twice, by apparently leaning on it too heavily. There were no locator pins so the parts wanted to wander until the glue set up. It wasn't mentioned but with that rear boom, I didn't want to take any chances, and added Liquid Gravity to keep it from being a tail sitter. The horizontal tail fin was a tight fit, and I should have done something about it. While it was drying, it popped out a little on one side and the glue dried that way.
This next build is the1/48 Hasegawa AV-8B Harrier II Plus. It will be detailed with Eduard photo etch and the scheme is going to be the infamous VMF-214 Blacksheep. The squadron was started by Major Gregory Boyington back in World War II. The Blacksheep transitioned to the Harrier in 1989 and deployed to their home base of MCAS Iwakuni, Japan. The decal set is produced by Caracal decals (set # CD48115) I will be doing the blue tailed scheme from 2015. For the first week of work I started with the cockpit and added the photo etch details to the cockpit tub, ejection seat and instrument panel. With the details added they were all painted and assembled. I then detailed the cockpit walls which are part of the fuselage with photo etch panels. The cockpit tub was then installed into the forward fuselage section. The next detail was the vectored exhaust. The vanes inside were thick plastic. These were removed and photo etch vanes were added. I am now working on the rear part of the fuselage and detailing the intake section. So far the build is moving along very well. You can see more photos and details in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-av-8b-harrier-ii-plus/
This is the second full summer since moving to Wisconsin. The last two weeks has seen temps in the 80's or better with humidity above 70%, long range forecast doesn't show any improvement . I know not to bother trying to airbrush when it's in the mid 80's and above but never dealt with humidity this high. How does humidity affect airbrushing? If it's about water from the compressor does installing a water trap inline fix the problem. Got 4 paint projects I'd like to move forward with but even if I try at 7 AM I'm still dealing with humidity in the 70 % or more. Thanks, Eric
Developed late in WW I by Germany after encountering British tanks, only 20 armoured tanks were produced. It was armed with one 57mm main gun and six 7.92 MGs and needed a crew of 18! It was large, cumbersome, awkward and slow and was a less than exciting success. However, it did figure into the first tank vrs tank combat when three A7Vs encountered three British Mk IV's (one male armed with two 6 pdr. main guns and two females armed only with MGs.) during the First Battle of Villiers-Bretonneux. The two female Mk IVs were damaged and had to withdraw, but the male continued to fire on the lead A7V, eventually disabling it and forcing the crew to abandon the vehicle. The two remaining A7Vs then withdrew, leaving the 'field of battle' to the lone Mk IV. This is the Emhar kit that has been re-released. It's typical Emhar in that the detail is minimized, but what is there is nicely done. My main complaint is that the slab sides have beveled joints, so getting them to mate up without any gaps takes patience and care. The decals give you a choice of three vehicles, but all have pretty boring camouflage. Also they are a bit thick and have a large amount of carrier film around them that must be trimmed to avoid silvering over all those rivets. I found an interesting camo pattern in a photo I saw on Google and dressed it up a bit with a new name and the eyes on the front. It makes a nice addition to my WW I vehicle collection.
Glad I found IPMS. Just back into scale aircraft after being out of it for 20 years. So far I have built an A-10 and a P-51 in 1/48 scale. A B-52G is next. I actually worked on one in the USAF. Anyway, it’s great to be here!
All, You may have seen the post I have up on FB. I am helping an older Air Force vet who was supposed to pass a couple years ago but is still kicking. He wants to sell most of his collection before he passes so his wife isn't stuck with them. I still don't have a list put together, going to try and work on that this week if I get time. Do have a bunch of pics though stuff has been selling well. Mostly 72nd aircraft with a bunch of 72nd armor and a few old Monogram 48th scale kits and 3 32nd scale 109s. Only car left is a Revell 1/40th scale Beetle from the early 60s. Also an old Revell X-15, Aurora C-119, bunch of FROG, Airfix/MPC, Hasagawa and more. I will attach a few pics and if you see anything that interest you just let me know. My biggest problem right now is tracking down boxes to ship.
I'm curious how many members make up the current membership body?
With the demise of Model Master, I need options for Italian Interior Green, FS 34558; any suggestions?
Earlier in June I tried to find a Standard C-119 Nose to backdate an Italeri AC-119K to a G but was unable to find one. My solution was to vacuum form a nose from a Roden C-123 and cut it down to fit the AC-119. Used three vacuum form noses super glued together to re-enforce the thin vacuum. Worked perfectly. Easy solution to backdate the "K" to a "G."
Hey all. This is one of my current builds, the Trumpeter 1/700 USS John F Kennedy. It's a commission build for one of my EMS Chiefs who was a master at arms in the late 90's. Almost have the carrier itself finished and I'm about to start the aircraft. It was a pretty easy build with the exception of the masts. The only thing I don't like is the Jet Blast Deflectors. There's no option to pose them down.
Hey all. Here are a few of my recently completed builds. The Revell 1/48 F-102, Bandi X-wing, two carrier tractors and two Hasegawa Egg Planes (F/A-18C and MV-22 Osprey).
Hey all! Just joined IPMS and the forums here. Been back into building models for 10 yrs now. I mainly build 1/48 aircraft but occasionally build other things.
Working on commissioned article that is a vignette incorporating a motorcycle cop making a traffic stop on a 24th scale farm tractor and its driver. Problem is that somehow I ended up with a 35th scale standing motorcycle cop instead of the required 24th scale. I know. Stupid, stupid. Worse, I didn't realize it was 35th until I started to position everything on a base. Yeah, REALLY stupid! So far I have been unable to find a standing motorcycle cop in 24th scale. Since figures aren't my strong suit, meaning I'm not familiar with the various figure manufacturers, here I am needing your help. If anyone can help me solve this problem, I would be more than grateful, because without the cop the vignette can't be completed or the article finished. HELP!
I have a Paasche VL airbrush and D500 compressor that I bought probably 30 years ago and haven't used in maybe 15 years. Decided to break it out this week. I took it apart, cleaned it and set it up to spray water. Looks like its working fine, and now to try some paint. But first I have some questions that date back to my last sessions using the tool. I did a search for 'airbrush techniques and basics' but didn't return any relevant results. I've read that 20 psi is a good starting point for spraying pressure. I have my regulator set to 20 psi at 'idle', but I notice that the pressure drops to approx 10 psi when flowing. Is this OK? Typically my paint jobs are not very big so I've only used the open spray cup (1/4 oz.). In the past I would use a pipette to put a couple drops of solvent in the bottom of the cup, followed by paint from the bottle, and then finish with a few more drops of thinned paint from the pipette. (After taking paint from the bottle and delivering it to the spray cup, I put the 'dirty' pipette in a small bottle of thinner, draw some up and put that mixture in the cup.) Then I use a toothpick to mix the paint in the cup. I figure the initial drops of solvent should be the first thing to go through the spray tip if I don't mix it completely for some reason. I would love to hear your comments on this! Of course I have thought of pre-mixing the paint, but this seems like it would waste more paint than I actually sprayed (transferring from mixing bottle to spray cup). I bought an airbrush holder; U-shaped wire thingy, but it seems no matter how I place it in the holder, between the hose fitting on the bottom of the brush and the spray cup, it won't sit like I would like it to, i.e. ready to pick up and use. I need to keep the spray cup off the brush and insert it after taking it out of the holder. Did I just buy the wrong type? The holder that came with the airbrush is sheet metal and actually works great, but it needs to be mounted flat to the work table whereas the wire one mounts to the side and holds the brush above the table. Finally, clean-up. I will usually pour any remaining paint from the spray cup back into the bottle. I have a jar with thinner ready that is large enough to immerse the spray cup and I put it in there to soak. I also have the 1 oz glass spray bottle ready with thinner and insert that into the airbrush and spray into a rag until clear. Paasche's instructions say I only need to remove the needle and clean it, so that takes care of the brush. But that leaves the following items to clean: spray cup, jar that it was soaking in, small thinner jar that got contaminated when I put the paint pipette into it, the pipette, and the 1 oz spray jar I used to clean the brush because inevitably when I remove it some color backflows into the bottle. Plus of course the mixing bottle if I used one. And this needs to be done for each color change. No wonder I haven't used it in 15 years! Am I making a bigger deal out of this than needs to be? Looking forward to your feedback.
Taking a long shot. I ordered & (finally) received Kasl Hobbies 1/48th scale RF-5E detail set. The only problem is most of the information is in Chinese. I checked the website shown on the instructions. The website is all in Chinese with no option for an English translation. The paint call outs are for Gunze Mr. Color which I should be able to cross to Model Master & Tamiya and I think I understand the diagrams well enough that I shouldn't have any problems. It would be nice to have a translation of the instructions. Do any of you read Chinese well enough to translate the attached.
Can anyone help? I am wondering how to resize color templates from 1:350 scale to 1:400 scale for a ship model I am planning to work on. Specifically, I have the Heller 1:400 Gneisenau. If anyone here has any ideas, I would appreciate it. Thank you in advance.
Looking for sprue B of Academy CH-46E “Bull Frog” or the specific part B21 which is the left landing gear. Thanks for any assistance.
Well, I was hoping to have these finished much sooner, but life got in the way a lot. At least I got them done before June ended! Here they are, three Abrams and a Paladin. Revell 1/72 scale US Army M-109 Paladin, Vietnam: Flyhawk 1/72 scale US Army M-1A2 Abrams SEP tank: Flyhawk 1/72 scale US Army M-1A2 Abrams SEP tank with Mine Plow: Tiger Models 1/72 scale M-1A2 Abrams SEP TUSK I: And that's all for now. Thanks all for looking in, comments are most welcome.