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Updated: 1 hour 53 min ago
Plan to do diorama later.
A big shout out to Jerry Escobedo-Sainz for his diorama of the Odaiba Gundam display! I visited the site back when they had the RX-78 Gundam, and have to say Jerry captured the scene to a tee! He even did the little bus gift shop! The current Unicorn Gundam that resides there does a light show in the evenings, which the Gundam did not. When the RX-78 first went on display, it looked kind of like an amusement park prop, but details and stenciling were added by the time that I saw it, and it looked pretty realistic, especially the inner joint mechanisms. I’m sure the Unicorn Gundam has the same level of detail. 60 foot tall Mobile Suits may be impractical in real life, but there is an ongoing project in Japan to make a full scale Gundam “move”. How far they take it is open to question, but I hope they can show skeptics like myself that they can do it. BTW, I have to comment on the negativity that this model genre gets. I was also a “scale only” modeler once, and thought the Japanese anime kits were just dumb junk. But after I built my first Gundam kit back in the early 1980s, I was hooked. I still build scale kits, but the Gundam and other anime kits also get into the mix. There is no difference to me - they are all plastic models. They can look spectacular finished using current weathering methods. Time and again I have heard the old trope that plastic models should only represent actual, historically significant machines, and nothing else. I have had that told to my face verbatim at an IPMS meeting. That is total bunk; those little plastic planes fired no shots and won no wars. Gunpla is here to stay, and Jerry’s diorama proves that very good models can be made from them.
I am fixing a couple of Lionel tanker cars for a friend. I am using strip styrene but I have also had to grind/sand through areas of the aluminum. Would any of you be able to point me to a brushable primer that settles down and leaves a smooth finish. Thank you all. Regards, JD
Selling the last released (February 2019) detailing sets of Metallic Details: - Antennas for aircraft model C-5B Galaxy (Roden, 1/144) - $9.00 Set contains resin and photoetched parts for detailing of antennas for aircraft model. - Detailing set for aircraft model B-2 Spirit (AMP, 1/144) - $13.45 Set contains photoetched parts for detailing of exterior, bomb bay and landing gears for aircraft model. - Detailing set for aircraft model KhAI-3 (MikroMir, 1/72) - $4.40 Set contains photoetched parts for detailing of exterior for aircraft model. - Landing gears for aircraft model Su-27 (Academy, 1/48) - $29.70 Set contains resin and photoetched parts for detailing wheel bays and landing gears of the aircraft model. - Exterior for aircraft model Su-27 (Academy, 1/48) - $25.30 Set contains photoetched parts for detailing exterior and air intakes of the aircraft model. - Exterior for aircraft model MiG-29 (Great Wall Hobby, 1/48) - $12.10 Set contains photoetched parts for detailing of exterior, landing gears, air intakes and cockpit for aircraft model. - Rotating propeller 56-66 mm (1/48) - $19.80 Photoetched part simulating a rotating propeller (airscrew) of aircraft. Designed for propellers with diameter of 56-66 mm (the part is cut to the required diameter). - Bomb bay for aircraft model S-3A/B Viking (Italeri, 1/48) - $55.00 Set contains resin and photoetched parts for detailing wiring, bomb bay, 4 torpedoes Mk-46, torpedo holders of aircraft model. - Nose cone for aircraft model SR-71A Blackbird (Italeri, 1/48) - $29.70 Set contains resin parts for detailing of nose cone for aircraft model. - USN loading cart, torpedoes Mk-46 and Mk-54 (1/48): * U.S. Navy torpedo loading cart - $13.20 * Torpedoes Mk-46 - $13.20 * Torpedoes Mk-46 for helicopters - $13.20 * Torpedoes Mk-54 - $13.20 * Torpedoes Mk-54 for helicopters - $13.20 * USN loading cart with torpedo Mk-46 - $14.40 Kits contain resin and photoetched parts for assembly of U.S. Navy torpedo loading cart and torpedoes Mk-46 and Mk-54.
I am doing research into 3D printing a 1/35th Scale water trailer, this is initial investigation and just looking for interest in whether I should even attempt it if there is no interest. Initially learning how to design using a parametric modeling program and then get the 3D printer. This subject is usually towed behind a 2.5 Ton 6x6 or the newer FMTVs. This usually is included in the logpacks going to infantry and armor companies(chow and water are almost inseparable and would be a good addition for dioramas or loads for trucks Not sure if I would have Shapeways handle fulfillment or whether I would just produce in the basement. Looking to retire into this in two years to keep me sane. Would like to know if this would be of interest to the Armor community Thanks, David Dodge
Managed to find a rare CollectAire resin 1/48 FH-1 Phantom and built it. Typical of CA resin kits...plenty of fit problems and needing a LOT of gel superglue and epoxy putty to fill and smooth the wings (designed to be folded) and nose parts (designed to be open and show the guns). The real problem is that the kit decal sheet fractured on me. They were high quality InvisaClear decals that I've never had a problem with before. I was able to save a couple of small ones and replace (mostly) the rest from the spares box, but that really sucked my enthusiasm right out of the room. After that, I just finished it up, minus seat belts, antennas, and wing lights just to get it done and over with. The markings represent the Flying Leathernecks jet demo team. The good news is I have a rare addition to my 1/48 collection with the first Phantom...but it ain't going in any contests! Here's a few pics of the build and the finished model. Anyway...onward and upward! Comments, critiques, and questions welcome, as always! GIL
She’s a big one
G'day- I have a (Polish kit) of a 1/35 scale 7TP light tank. They reference colors of Olive green (khaki), dark brown, sand yellow (ochre), and dark grey. Would anyone know what paint colors to use for these (preferably enamels)? I have very limited knowledge on World War II Polish tank colors. Thanks! Joe Vattilana
Hi: I am new to armor scale modeling. I am retired and 65 years old. I have built model ships most of my life. I am really looking forward to modeling 1/35 and 1/16 scale armor. I have already bought about 10 tanks to start with. I have just bought my first airbrush setup to paint with hopefully. I will probably have a lot of questions. Keith
Hi everyone: I have a problem with the tracks that came with my Revell 1/35 scale Tiger ll Ausf. b tank # 03275. I can't seem to get the tracks to work. Has anyone else had this problem, and does anyone know of a set of tracks that will work. I have seen a bunch on ebay but have no idea if they will work. I have built ships all my life and am just getting started in armor. I hope someone can help. oldstampman Keith
Major Harry Crim of the 21st group’s 531st squadron was a veteran pilot with 2,200 hours total time, & had logged 35 in the P-51. It was enough to become well acquainted with the Mustang’s characteristics, though Crim still favored the P-38 from his Mediterranean tour. An aggressive Floridian, Crim was one of the more experienced fighter pilots on Iwo. He had flown a full 50-mission tour in North Africa, Sicily and Italy with the 14thF. G. in P-38s. After the sand, flies and disease of Tunisia, where he lost 50 pounds, Crim became something of an Iwo booster. He believed that 100% concentration on combat, with no serious diversions, was one of the island’s strong points. He helped his pilots devote full-time attention to flying and fighting, thus preventing them from going “rock-happy.” Japanese Banzai Attack An entirely unexpected diversion came even before the first VLR mission, bringing the war literally to the pilots’ front door. The 21st F. G. had been on Iwo barely one week when eight dawn CAP pilots were leaving their camp for the field at about 0400 on March 27. They were suddenly overrun by 350 to 400 Japanese who poured out of underground caves and tunnels. Amid terrific confusion the Mustang pilots found themselves engaged in a frantic, vicious infantry war. Some like Harry Crim got the news more forcibly than others. A mortar shell exploded outside his tent and a piece of shrapnel penetrated the bottom of his cot, hit the .45 automatic under his flight jacket pillow, and tossed him to the floor. Crim grabbed another .45, ran outside and saw the group commander’s tent collapsed from a mortar round which wounded the senior officers. He picked up a carbine and several magazines and dashed about 100 feet to a small rise where he could shoot at “about 30 Japs in a large hole, right on the edge of the camp, about 150 feet away.” By now the Japanese had occupied three tents and were also in a trench on the far side of camp. Crim dashed back to camp and ordered everyone out of the tents in order to separate the Americans from the Japanese. Meanwhile, the 46th squadron’s flight surgeon, Dr. Hart, had set up a first-aid station in a bulldozed depression. But others were still fighting in the camp. Irate cooks chased six Japanese out of a mess tent, armed only with kitchen utensils. Lt. Harve Phipps of the 72nd F.S. shot two or three Japanese from his tent door, then was wounded by a grenade. Major Sam Hudson, C.O. of the 531st, took Crim and Lt. Harry Koke from tent to tent checking for stragglers and wounded. “We operated as a team, two covering the tent while one raised a flap and looked in,” Crim related. “The wounded we found, we’d put on a blanket and drag back to Dr. Hart.” Reaching the far side of camp, the trio came under fire from three tents occupied by Japanese. Koke was wounded but stayed with Hudson and Crim, who checked every tent but one they knew had five pilots in it. Koke then went to the first-aid station, while Hudson and Crim organized a skirmish line to advance through the camp and attack the enemy occupying a trench. Meanwhile, other personnel were acting independently. Tech. Sgt. Philip Jean, wielding a borrowed Browning Automatic Rifle like an expert, accounted for eight Japanese and possibly three more with only 50 rounds. Other mechanics and support people quickly became proficient with carbines, rifles and pistols. Marines now pinned down the enemy while Army personnel rushed through the tents and quickly killed the enemy found there. Advancing towards the trench, Major Hudson came to a pillbox and looked inside. A Japanese pushed a hand grenade out in Hudson’s face and he tucked up in a crouch, head down. The explosion ruined Hudson’s carbine and helmet, and though he lost three fingers he was otherwise not seriously harmed. Crim dragged him back to Dr. Hart. At length a Marine tank came down the hill and ran the length of the trench. Those Japanese not killed immediately, committed suicide. By about 0900 some 330 of the enemy were dead; 98 in the 21st group’s compound alone. Another 18 were captured, but 7th F. C. had suffered heavily. Forty-four were killed and upwards of 100 wounded. But some pilots like Harve Phipps later returned from hospital to fly again. Crim replaced the wounded Hudson as CO. of the 531st F. S., and the next day the 21st group flew its first mission, strafing Haha Jima. The Japanese were not going to let the Americans get much more sleep after the predawn commando raid. At least not if “Tokyo Rose” had her way. In a radio broadcast monitored at Iwo she said that as the island was so small, it had been completely mined so that in event of capture “the island could be blown back into the sea.” She added that the fuse was lit and the explosion would occur at midnight one week after the first announcement. She repeated her story every night along with the usual news and music. The night the great explosion was to occur she repeated the warning and played funeral music. “Of course nobody believed it and we went to bed as usual,” Crim said. But about midnight, almost exactly on schedule, a terrific explosion rocked the island. With Rose’s week-long series of threats well in mind, several pilots dashed out of their tents, inflated their life rafts and jumped in. After a few minutes they realized the island showed no indication of sinking under them, “so we all sheepishly went back to bed.” Cause of the explosion—a trip flare which set off a bomb dump. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.506thfightergroup.org/Iwo Feb-Apr.asp Visitor: 1673106. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.506thfightergroup.org/mustangsofiwo.asp Molesworth, C. (2006). Very long range P-51 Mustang units of the Pacific War. Oxford: Osprey. The Kit There isn’t much I can say about this kit that hasn’t already been said over the past 6 months or so, which is about how long I spent on it. I will, however, say that the parts tolerances are extremely low. If something is misaligned 0.5 nanometers, it will have a ripple effect on subsequent steps. I felt like I had the fuselage cemented together perfectly, but when it came time to add the wings I had issues with the starboard wing root. After some wrestling, I managed to get it seated properly. Then, I had difficulty adding the starboard landing flap. Again, after much unnecessary effort, I got it seated properly. I’m not sure where I went wrong, but something had to be slightly off somewhere. The detail on this kit is amazing, and, really, the only thing about it I disliked is that the fuselage halves have no positive locator points. The cockpit tub is basically the only locator point, and I’m sure that was part of my problem. I used Kitsworld decals #KW148154. After priming the model in Testor’s enamel Gloss Black, I sprayed Alclad Aluminum overall. Weathering was done with MiG Ammo dark brown enamel wash. This was the first NMF I’ve sprayed in about 6 years, and I’m not thrilled with the results. Oh well. Overall, a satisfying project that I’m glad is over.
Many years ago, prior to 1977, I got this 1/72 scale Monogram Tomcat F-14 kit as a birthday gift. I've stumbled across it once again and wonder if it's worth building or one of those old kits "not worth the glue or time"? https://www.scalemates.com/kits/monogram-5992-tomcat-f-14a--161285 As a kid, I don't recall much issue with it besides my using white gloss Testors paint from a small dime bottle and it looking like crap, but that was 40 years ago. It's not my normal modeling genre any longer, but the nostalgia sets in.
Hello I would hope this stimulates some spirited discussion. Concept: As each Category is Judged, Notices are placed as to what has "Placed" in each category : No Longer place "Category winners"(Announced at Awards presentation) Judges simply place a "IPMS Nationals winner" card with model (category and entrant number written on it). Awards Show will be Category and Special Winners (1st,2nd,3rd will be placed with models during Awards ceremony, as done now) 1st,2nd,3rd will be published in Journal and Social Media and discussed during Saturday evening model-rush. - Debate Points Non-Winner will take Models and Leave...(My Opinion...I am there for the Convention ,not only as a competitor, Thank God) Banquet will suffer....( Banquet is about Camaraderie, IPMS recognitions and Thank You's, not awards.) Judges may be asked to justify their decisions...They should be able to do so even now. +Debate Points Winning models can be viewed in a Timely manner during Saturday Brief Photo Show and Announcement no longer needed during Awards Ceremony Winning Model Builders can be congratulated and discuss their methodology during the day. Details can be added or subtracted as Needed Comments PLEASE Bill
Is anyone working on this kit? I got one a couple weeks back and it looks like a superb kit. I was wondering if anyone has any comments. Dak
This next build is the Mirage 1/48 PZL-23B KARAS of the 64th Line Flight, 6th Air Regiment. This particular kit was a limited edition that came with a commemorative coin. The kit already comes with resin and photo etch accessories so no other accessories were added so this is straight out of the box build. The engine assembly was pretty straight forward. The cockpit used photo etch seatbelts and a resin tank. It went together very well. The rear and lower machine guns come with photo etch sights and ammo mounts. The rear gunner has a “Lazy Susan” style holder for the extra ammo cartridges. The rear gunner seat and gun mount was assembled. Next up is the cockpit walls and fuselage. More photos are in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-pzl-23b-karas/
Here's a trip down memory lane for you modelers "of a certain age". This kit was first released in 1958 and It was state of the art at the time. It has decent engraved panel lines, was light on the rivets (but I sanded them off anyway), and had the embossed decal locators, which had to be removed. I replaced the gear doors as the kit ones were just too thick and the decals are cobbled together from my spares as the ones in the kit were much too yellowed to use. The finish is Alclad over some panels primed in flat and the rest in gloss black. It I could have produced this model and taken it to a contest in 1959, I might have won something, but today, it's just a nostalgia piece, but it was fun to build.
Here is another 2020 completed build. This build started life as a Jimmy Flintstone resin body and interior and morphed into what you see here by utilizing a lot of scratchbuilding and kitbashing. I used more different materials on this from brass, resin, styrene sheet, old necklaces for chain, Bic pens for exhaust stacks and a little bit of 3D printed parts.
After yet another fascinating conversation with an old friend who flew these jets, am stoked to do the 1/72 F-100C conversion from Obscureco. The Xtradecal sheet with my desired markings states that NMF Huns were actually painted silver (given the exposed exhaust areas, etc unpainted, etc.) Hard to tell from the period pix. Does this silver paint apply to these late 1950s USAFE air defense birds too?
Here are two of the awards I got from Spruefest 2020. They had split the 1/72 scale armor category into Wheeled and Tracked. I got these awards: Third Place 1/72 scale Tracked: Third place 1/72 scale Wheeled: This was a tremendous surprise given the quality of the models on the contest tables. Thanks for looking in.
Hello, I am new to the IPMS site. I am in need of a set of 1/48 KV-2 tracks, preferably Tamiya but Hobby Boss should work too. Is there somewhere to go on the site to locate something like this; I am aware that most builders on this forum are quite accomplished an will swap out the original rubber tracks for metal or plastic link tracks. If anyone has a set or might know where to get them, please IM me. Thanks