IPMS LogoInternational Plastic Modelers' Society / USA

IPMS LogoInternational Plastic Modelers' Society / USA

IPMS LogoIPMS/USA

IPMS LogoIPMS/USA

TACO TRIKE: 1:25 SCALE CUSTOM MOTORCYCLE KIT FROM MPC

Scale Model News - Sat, 07/04/2020 - 02:00

THE MPC TACO TRIKE has a neatly-moulded V-8 engine, and a wedge-style body, hence its original 1974 name, Wedge Chopper.Read more »
Categories: News

Hello from Houston TX

New Forum Posts - Fri, 07/03/2020 - 13:35
Hey all! Just joined IPMS and the forums here. Been back into building models for 10 yrs now. I mainly build 1/48 aircraft but occasionally build other things.

Tamiya sneaks in a new Pz. Kpfw. IV Ausf. F and Marder I in 35th scale

The Modelling News - Fri, 07/03/2020 - 07:24
News from Japan today with Tamiya releasing some surprise new photos of their latest two kits - the Pz. Kpfw. IV Ausf. F and Marder I in 35th scale. We have some shots for you in our preview...
Read on... »

1 new photo (July 3)

New Gallery Images - Fri, 07/03/2020 - 05:58

1 new photo (July 3)

New Gallery Images - Fri, 07/03/2020 - 05:58

1 new photo (July 3)

New Gallery Images - Fri, 07/03/2020 - 05:57

1 new photo (July 3)

New Gallery Images - Fri, 07/03/2020 - 05:57

1 new photo (July 3)

New Gallery Images - Fri, 07/03/2020 - 05:57

ED 'BIG DADDY' ROTH'S MAIL BOX CHOPPER TRIKE TO 1:25 SCALE

Scale Model News - Fri, 07/03/2020 - 05:50

THIS IS A CHOPPER-STYLE motorcycle trike, one of a six-strong 1:25 scale range, first issued by MPC in the 1970s. Read more »
Categories: News

Boy, did I screw up. Help!

New Forum Posts - Thu, 07/02/2020 - 18:00
Working on commissioned article that is a vignette incorporating a motorcycle cop making a traffic stop on a 24th scale farm tractor and its driver. Problem is that somehow I ended up with a 35th scale standing motorcycle cop instead of the required 24th scale. I know. Stupid, stupid. Worse, I didn't realize it was 35th until I started to position everything on a base. Yeah, REALLY stupid! So far I have been unable to find a standing motorcycle cop in 24th scale. Since figures aren't my strong suit, meaning I'm not familiar with the various figure manufacturers, here I am needing your help. If anyone can help me solve this problem, I would be more than grateful, because without the cop the vignette can't be completed or the article finished. HELP!

Basic Airbrush Questions

New Forum Posts - Thu, 07/02/2020 - 14:36
I have a Paasche VL airbrush and D500 compressor that I bought probably 30 years ago and haven't used in maybe 15 years. Decided to break it out this week. I took it apart, cleaned it and set it up to spray water. Looks like its working fine, and now to try some paint. But first I have some questions that date back to my last sessions using the tool. I did a search for 'airbrush techniques and basics' but didn't return any relevant results. I've read that 20 psi is a good starting point for spraying pressure. I have my regulator set to 20 psi at 'idle', but I notice that the pressure drops to approx 10 psi when flowing. Is this OK? Typically my paint jobs are not very big so I've only used the open spray cup (1/4 oz.). In the past I would use a pipette to put a couple drops of solvent in the bottom of the cup, followed by paint from the bottle, and then finish with a few more drops of thinned paint from the pipette. (After taking paint from the bottle and delivering it to the spray cup, I put the 'dirty' pipette in a small bottle of thinner, draw some up and put that mixture in the cup.) Then I use a toothpick to mix the paint in the cup. I figure the initial drops of solvent should be the first thing to go through the spray tip if I don't mix it completely for some reason. I would love to hear your comments on this! Of course I have thought of pre-mixing the paint, but this seems like it would waste more paint than I actually sprayed (transferring from mixing bottle to spray cup). I bought an airbrush holder; U-shaped wire thingy, but it seems no matter how I place it in the holder, between the hose fitting on the bottom of the brush and the spray cup, it won't sit like I would like it to, i.e. ready to pick up and use. I need to keep the spray cup off the brush and insert it after taking it out of the holder. Did I just buy the wrong type? The holder that came with the airbrush is sheet metal and actually works great, but it needs to be mounted flat to the work table whereas the wire one mounts to the side and holds the brush above the table. Finally, clean-up. I will usually pour any remaining paint from the spray cup back into the bottle. I have a jar with thinner ready that is large enough to immerse the spray cup and I put it in there to soak. I also have the 1 oz glass spray bottle ready with thinner and insert that into the airbrush and spray into a rag until clear. Paasche's instructions say I only need to remove the needle and clean it, so that takes care of the brush. But that leaves the following items to clean: spray cup, jar that it was soaking in, small thinner jar that got contaminated when I put the paint pipette into it, the pipette, and the 1 oz spray jar I used to clean the brush because inevitably when I remove it some color backflows into the bottle. Plus of course the mixing bottle if I used one. And this needs to be done for each color change. No wonder I haven't used it in 15 years! Am I making a bigger deal out of this than needs to be? Looking forward to your feedback.

Masterbox's two new kits of July/ August in CAD, art, sprues & colours in our preview...

The Modelling News - Thu, 07/02/2020 - 08:31
Masterbx supplies us with two new kits for July/ August - A set of three native Americans to suit your frontier wars series of kits and a section of trench to suit both WWI or WWII era dioramas. Both of these are in our preview in CAD, boxart and sprue and colour call-outs to give a little more of an idea of what they are made of...

Read on... »

Kasl Hobbies RF-5E Detail Set

New Forum Posts - Wed, 07/01/2020 - 22:48
Taking a long shot. I ordered & (finally) received Kasl Hobbies 1/48th scale RF-5E detail set. The only problem is most of the information is in Chinese. I checked the website shown on the instructions. The website is all in Chinese with no option for an English translation. The paint call outs are for Gunze Mr. Color which I should be able to cross to Model Master & Tamiya and I think I understand the diagrams well enough that I shouldn't have any problems. It would be nice to have a translation of the instructions. Do any of you read Chinese well enough to translate the attached.

From 1:350 to 1:400

New Forum Posts - Wed, 07/01/2020 - 15:08
Can anyone help? I am wondering how to resize color templates from 1:350 scale to 1:400 scale for a ship model I am planning to work on. Specifically, I have the Heller 1:400 Gneisenau. If anyone here has any ideas, I would appreciate it. Thank you in advance.

Looking for sprue B of Academy CH-46E “Bull Frog”

New Forum Posts - Wed, 07/01/2020 - 09:19
Looking for sprue B of Academy CH-46E “Bull Frog” or the specific part B21 which is the left landing gear. Thanks for any assistance.

The Duke Finishes Four Armor in June

New Forum Posts - Tue, 06/30/2020 - 21:18
Well, I was hoping to have these finished much sooner, but life got in the way a lot. At least I got them done before June ended! Here they are, three Abrams and a Paladin. Revell 1/72 scale US Army M-109 Paladin, Vietnam: Flyhawk 1/72 scale US Army M-1A2 Abrams SEP tank: Flyhawk 1/72 scale US Army M-1A2 Abrams SEP tank with Mine Plow: Tiger Models 1/72 scale M-1A2 Abrams SEP TUSK I: And that's all for now. Thanks all for looking in, comments are most welcome.

Mask Review: 1/72nd scale Su-57 Color Separation Mask from Galaxy Models

The Modelling News - Tue, 06/30/2020 - 04:10
Galaxy model has some simple solutions to some of your modelling needs, and first amongst them are some pretty handy masks to help paints some of your kits. Today Gary Wickham looks at the new 72nd scale masks solution for the Zvezda Su-57 kit. See what he thought about them in his review...

Read on... »

Star Trek's Convair Connection

New Forum Posts - Mon, 06/29/2020 - 18:01
Star Trek fans are more than likely familiar with these: The man behind them, Frank (Franz) Joseph Schnaubelt, moved from Chicago to California in 1941, where he applied for work at Consolidated Vultee Aircraft as a draftsman. The sample of work he submitted was a blueprint drawing of a single-engine airplane that happened to be the personal favorite plane of his interviewer. He was hired on the spot. He took a few classes at San Diego State College (aerodynamics, higher math, and engineering), but never attained a degree. FJ worked for General Dynamics for nearly 30 years as a design engineer, both in the aerodynamics and hydrodynamics divisions. His drawings of planes appeared as illustrations in the Collier's Encyclopedia. He was part of a team that built and flew a full-size reproduction of the A-1, the first military seaplane. (He also designed the logo for the A-1 program.) His biggest claim to fame was the design of the bomb pylons on the F-111 fighter plane, for which he was given an award by Convair for cutting costs without sacrificing quality. His services were loaned to other aircraft companies (such as Ryan) by Convair due to his expertise. FJ was laid off from General Dynamics in 1969, 3 years after receiving his 25-year pin, replaced by younger men with college degrees. He always referred to the event as "taking an early retirement," but it was not voluntary. In 1973, he decided to draw the Star Trek props and ships as an intellectual exercise. The rest is history. In 1974 and 1975, these works were published by Ballantine Books as the Booklet of General Ship's Plans (a.k.a. the Enterprise Blueprints) and the Star Fleet Technical Manual. FJ attended Star Trek conventions and book signings from 1975-1983, then withdrew from most public appearances to care for his wife, who was a homebound invalid due to advanced osteoporosis and multiple strokes. He always enjoyed meeting and corresponding with Star Trek fans, and when he did attend conventions, you could always find him in the hotel lobby or on the lounge chairs by the pool, deep in conversation with a cluster of fans, even at 2:00 or 3:00 a.m. FJ died on June 2, 1994 of sudden cardiac arrest. He was only a few weeks shy of his 80th birthday. He remained bright and active, and continued to live independently until the very end; indeed, he was a guest speaker at a local San Diego science fiction convention only a month before his death. The above is taken from a 1999 interview with his daughter, published at http://www.trekplace.com/fj-kdint01.html For more on Mr Schnaubel, see the interview and the following: http://www.trekplace.com/fj-fjwilliamsint01.html (1976 interview) http://www.trekplace.com/fj-fjnewittint01.html (1982 interview) And see here for high-resolution copies of the Franz Joseph blueprints, re-scanned at 400 dpi and cleaned up: https://www.cygnus-x1.net/links/lcars/star-trek-blueprints.php

Olkhovskiy Torpedo (two seat)

IPMS/USA Reviews - Mon, 06/29/2020 - 08:51
Product Image Review Author:  Dave Morrissette Omega Models

When this first came up for review, I'll admit I never heard of this plane or company which is intriguing. A little quick research and I found that this was one of the first Russian monoplanes and it had an interesting difference with many planes- no ailerons. The ends of the wing bias because of their tether tension control wiring. That was enough for me. Omega Models located in the Czech Republic makes limited run resin models of lesser known subject. This kit comes in cream colored resin in 23

= pieces with decals, instructions and a length of wire.

 

My first action was to wash the parts with dish detergent to remove any mold release and let dry. Next, I separated the parts from casting blocks and sanded down the minimal seam lines. All this prep work is critical as finding paint not sticking or a seam line later is much harder to fix.

 

Construction starts in the cockpit which consists of two seats and two sticks. The stick broke while installing so I scratch built a couple. The seats have a nice approximation of a cane woven back. Once in place, the two opening insert is added. This took a little fussing but installed. This was then only place in the kit I used putty to smooth this part in and it was not a large amount. The tail parts were added making sure they are square. At this time, I added the landing gear struts.

 

Next, one of the struts is cut into four sections and these are the supports for the wings. The drawing shows the location on the fuselage and each 1-2 mm piece was added.

 

The wings were built next and since they are perched on struts, I needed them to be stable so I chose some stiff stainless steel wire and drilled into the wings  so the spacing matched the struts and glued the parts to once side first. The instructions call for spacing between wings of 10mm and this was achieved and things glued up solidly. I did not add the wings yet. At this point, the plane was primered and then sprayed a blue green color (in hind sight, I should have gone even more blue). This was set aside to dry.

 

While drying, I worked on the engine and propeller. The engine would have you add rods on the back and front for lifters and the like. The propeller looked well out of scale but checking references of the real plane, Omega is spot on as the prop on this plane was large.

 

I added the decals next. There was some silvering on the wing and fuselage decals and the decals were very resistant to settle until I used Solvaset. There is a set of decals for the wheels and try and try, they would not conform to the wheels regardless of treatment so they were removed. I added the wheels and then flat coated everything for final assembly and rigging.

 

I added the wings onto the supports and they fit well (and surprised me!). To support the rigging, I added the central attachment point and its two braces and painted it wood colored. Once dry and set, I used 0.3mm wire for rigging. I squared the wings up in a jig and started adding wires. Since the sides are mirror images left and right, I added the line in that sequence. When I got frustrated/sloppy/eye-blind, I stopped. Once the top was done, I flipped it over and did the bottom. I touched up the paint and flatted it again and the plane was done.

 

This is a good kit of a relatively unknown plane. With the rigging, rebuilding parts and size, I would recommend it to modelers who have a few kits under their belt. That and the decals would be my only caveat.

 

Thanks to Omega Models for the opportunity to not only build this kit but also for furthering my knowledge of this unique plane.