Eduard Models has expanded its Look line by releasing a set to enhance their own P-400 model.
This set of the Look line includes a pre-painted resin instrument panel and prepainted photoetch seatbelts, plus prepainted photoetch levers and such.
The instrument panel is provided in two resin parts and they are meant to be drop-in replacements for the original parts. They fit perfectly. You only have to remove them from the casting blocks and you are ready to go.
The prepainted PE is part of the STEEL line. I've been fortunate to review items of that line before and I knew I was in for a treat. Despite the STEEL name of if the PE is very easy to bend to final shape. You only have to remove them from the fret, bend them to shape and glue them in place (use CA).
As you can see in the pictures, the parts look amazing. Talk about a simple and fast way to improve the Look of your model!
I would like to thank Eduard Models and IPMS/USA for the review sample.
Thank you to Bill and to Phil for all the work you do!
ICM Holding, a Ukrainian-based company known for outstanding quality, has produced a very nice new-mold German halftrack. The main armored personnel carrier of the German Wehrmacht, the Sd.Kfz. 251, built by the company Hanomag, was used to transport motorized infantry. The armored personnel carriers were in service with the German army throughout the Second World War and were used in all theaters. This modification, the Sd.Kfz.251/6 Aufs.A., was produced in 1939-1940.
Contained in the box is one sealed bag holding five highly detailed gray styrene sprues and a separately bagged clear sprue. Black vinyl tracks accompany the kit as well as two black vinyl tires. You also get a sprue of four detailed figures. The kit contains 334 parts which were all flash free and showed no injection marks or sink holes. Panel lines are finely recessed. Parts which are not used for this particular model are clearly marked on the sprue diagrams with pink highlights.
The 28-page assembly guide begins with construction of the hull, then the suspension, motor, driver's console, interior details, idler arms & wheels. Assembly is completed with adding the top, weapons, tools, tracks & tires, decals and figures. The last page has full-color pictures of two different vehicles. The paint and decal call-outs are clearly marked. The two versions provided are Sd.Kfz.251/6 Aufs.A. command vehicle of Lieutenant-General H. Guderian, Poland, September 1939 and Sd.Kfz.251/6 Aufs.A. 1941.
This kit was quite enjoyable to build. Assembly was largely straightforward and mostly free of problems. I have a few recommendations to help you make the most of this nice kit.
- All parts with a few exceptions are painted Tank Gray-Tamiya XF-63.
- There is a minor part number error in Step 29. Part E11 is actually E17 on the sprue.
- Instructions indicate to paint the whole interior XF2 (Flat White). After conducting some research and consulting other armor builders, we believe this to be inaccurate. The visible interior of German halftracks was Tank Gray-same as the exterior. The driver console (the non-visible area) was close to a Sandgelb, or at the least more of an ivory white and not pure white.
- Step 67 has you remove raised rivets on the left and right sides (see photo). It will be easier for you to remove the raised detail before installing the windows. Additionally, you are to drill holes (two holes at each of the four corners of the upper hull). The instructions tell you to use piece H17--the "Conductor" or WAB?OI in Russian. This is a poor translation. "Jig" is more accurate. (see photo). The jig helps you get the holes in correct alignment for drilling. As with removing the raised detail, drilling the holes with assistance of the jig is much easier when the windows have not been installed.
- Do not install the drive wheels until you are ready to install the tracks.
- If you add a figure of the driver, you must add it prior to fixing the top hull to the bottom half. If you do not, it is impossible to install the driver figure into the seat.
The hull assembly is straightforward and the parts fit accurately. There were no problems. The idler arms and wheels fit snuggly. If you install the drive wheels too early, you will likely find it difficult to install the tracks around the drive wheel gears. There is little space to work with. Therefore, I recommend that you install the idler arms/wheels first. Then when you are ready to install the tracks, install them together with the drive wheels.
The engine is appropriately detailed for this scale. It is covered by the hood and no option is provided for an "open" posing. The top hull fits nicely to the lower hull. I was able to remove the seam with a light sanding. Adding interior details, tools, weapons, and the radio goes quickly and all of these steps are problem free.
There is a visible seam on both the left and right fender. Although the seam is not horrible, its presence is not accurate to the real-life vehicle and should be filled and removed (see photos). To remove the seams, I first lightly sanded the surface to even them out. Next, I applied a bit of Tamiya white putty. Once dry, I continued sanding with finer and finer grains. Lastly, I primed and painted. The decals went on with no problems.
For the review sample, I built the provided figures. There are four: a commander, a driver, a radio operator and a radio assistant. The figures build up nicely and all of the parts fit precisely. There is a separately provided figure painting guide (see photo). Together with assembly and painting, the figures were completed in a total of approximately three hours.
Overall, this kit is a very nice and enjoyable to build.; it is the kind of kit that would make a great weekend project! With following some of the recommendations, you will have an easy and fun time with this kit!
Thank you to ICM for the honor of reviewing this very nice kit, and thank you to IPMS for the opportunity!
Thank you Bill & Phil for all you do for the Reviewers!
Synopsis per back cover: The Eighty Years War began as a limited rebellion of Dutchmen seeking religious tolerance from their Spanish overlords, but it quickly escalated into one of the longest wars in European history. Spain's failed invasion of 1599 and the mutinies that followed convinced Dutch leaders that they should go on the offensive, and the following campaign pitted the sons of two famous leaders against each other: Maurice of Nassau and Albert of Hapsburg. One led an unproved new model army, the other Spain's "unbeatable" tericos; each commanded well over 15,000 men.
The Dutch wanted to land near Nieuwpoort, conquer it and then march on to Dunkirk, the northern home port of the Spanish fleet, but they were cut off by a resurgent and reunited Spanish army. The two forces then met on the beach and in the dunes north of Nieuwpoort. The battle that followed was decisive and has subsequently been identified as the first modern battle. Victory ensured the survival of the fledgling Dutch Republic, while the revolutionary tactics and techniques employed by the Republican army sparked the transformation of European Welfare.
About the Author
Bouko de Groot has a BA in Art History and an MA in Egyptology. He has served in the army and is a published author of a number of academic, popular scientific and business journalistic articles. When not writing about current affairs, he continues to study and write about military history. He is Dutch and currently lives in The Hague. Peter Dennis (Illustrator) was inspired by contemporary magazines such as Look and Learn, leading him to study Illustration at Liverpool Art College. Peter has since contributed to hundreds of books, predominantly on historical subjects, including many Osprey titles. A keen wargamer and modelmaker, he is based in Nottinghamshire, UK. Provided by Osprey Publishing.
Table of Contents
- Chapter 1 Origins of the Campaign
- Chapter 2 Chronology
- Chapter 3 Opposing Commanders
- Chapter 4 Opposing Armies
- Chapter 5 Opposing Plans
- Chapter 6 The Campaign
- Chapter 7 Aftermath
- Chapter 8 The Battlefields Today
Before reading this book, I felt I had to educate myself on the city whose Dutch spelling I couldn't pronounce. It is, simply, pronounced New-port. Nieuwpoort is a coastal town located in northern Belgium in Flanders, one of the three Belgian regions. Today it is known for its beaches and marina, yet it retains its medieval city center.
All I can say is that I learned a tremendous amount from this book. When I started, I had flashbacks to my 8th grade social studies class learning some facts about the Eighty Years War and feeling like I had been sitting my seat for eighty years. All humor aside, I really enjoyed this book, and I feel I am an improved person for reading it.
Like many who don't read so much, I first flipped through to look at the pictures. Well, these aren't pictures. These are much more. I was drawn in by the full-color photographs of armor helmets and breast plates, the medieval guns & canons, and then by the full-color reproductions of Dutch portraits, battle scene painting and maps. With each turn of a page, I was pulled in more and more and wanted to read and learn.
I was struck by de Groot's description of how armies back then functioned in battle. By providing information such as distances between soldiers, how communications were relayed by non-combatant trumpeters, etc., de Groot shows us how orderly and disciplined battle was during this era.
The story of the beach standoff and then the Battle of Nieuwpoort is also very engaging. The author maps out the action in an hour-by-hour sequence, and this really brings the events to life. As I got near the end, I came across verbal commands all dealing with the Pike. Presented in their original Old English, they were a delight to read, and now I go around telling my friends all kind of Pike commands and getting odd looks.
This is a marvelous and expertly crafted book. I highly recommend it, and I believe you will be drawn in and enjoy learning the information contained within these pages as much as I did. Congratulations to Mr. de Groot for writing and portraying history in such a way as to make the reader want to learn more!
Thank you to Osprey for publishing such a fine book, and thank you to IPMS for the opportunity.
The PBJ-1H is U.S. Navy variant of the B-25 which was operated by the U.S. Marine Corps as a ground attacker. This aircraft is a powerful ground strafing machine and due to the weapons package built-in, it can be viewed as a gunship.
This accessory is not identified for use on one specific manufacture's kit. The PBJ-1H in 1/72 scale is or has been produced by Hasegawa, Dragon Models & Matchbox.
Assembly is straightforward as there are only two components. The resin cast is feather-light and has very crisp detail and is flash free. To begin, I washed the cast using a mild solution of water and dish detergent. Next, I sawed the cast in half to gain easier access to each of the two components. After each piece was removed, I gently sanded smoothed the sawed surfaces and then adjoined both pieces using CA. The completed assembly was primed and painted with Tamiya Sky Gray.
This is a very nice accessory and I believe it would be an excellent replacement for any provided kit part.
Thank you to Brengun for supporting the IPMS Reviewer Corp and for providing this very nice accessory. Thank you to IPMS for the opportunity, and to Bill and Phil for all of your work.
G'day Benchers! Dave, Ian and Julian are back in the studio with another bumper episode.
We are talking to a former employee of Wingnut Wings, David Johnson, in part 2 of our look at what happened to Wingnut
And in an exclusive for our On The Bench listeners the Scale Modellers Supply is offering a 10% discount on all orders from their website…..tune in to find out about this fantastic offer!
Eduard Models has re-released their P-400 (actually P-39/P-400 family if you consider all the parts in the sprues) this time in the Profipack boxing, which includes several finishing options, photo-etch upgrades and pre-cut masks.
I've believe this model dates to the year 2000. Despite being 20-yr old at time of writing this review, the molds hold really well. There is no flash anywhere and the panel lines are sharp and well defined. Eduard knows how to keep its technology in such way that their products are consistent over time.
I had the opportunity to review this kit with the P-400 Look set (reviewed independently) so the interior that you will see is from that set.
This model (like most) starts with the interior. Given the "car door" design of the P-400, plus the "bubble canopy" it is a good idea to spend some time making sure you get things to look as nice as you can. Either using the Profipack PE or the Look set you will get a top notch interior.
Assembling the interior presents no challenges. The cockpit area attaches to the nose wheel well and using the fuselage as an alignment gig, everything goes together without a glitch.
Just make sure you add plenty of weight in the nose to prevent a tail sitter. I added a piece of styrene to the nose wheel well (creating a "roof") that helped me to install the lead sinker that worked as the nose weight.
Fit of the assembled interior to the fuselage is so good that I didn't need to glue the subassemblies in place. I just glued the fuselage sides and the subassembly stayed in place.
Next up was the wing. The design is a single lower part that sets the (minimal) dihedral of the wing and two upper parts. Remember to open a small hole in the wing leading edge for the wing guns. Again the fit is solid there. But to my surprise I ended up with a small gap on both wing-roots. I used some filler and sanded to shape. As of note is the trailing edge of the wing. It is thick for the scale. I decided to leave it as is. You can probably sand down the mating surfaces but you might have a step at the wingroot to deal with.
I also had to add a small piece of styrene to the port fuselage just in front of the cockpit as during test fits I noticed a small gap between the grey plastic and the clear part for the canopy.
Thanks to the solid engineering of this model (plus the pre-cut canopy masks) I was ready to move into painting in just a few hours of work.
I choose an airframe that was assembled from different airplanes, sporting both RAF and USAAF colors. I used Tru-Color paints (reviewed elsewhere in the website) to finish this model. On the paint front I would say that I am impressed by the quality of the paints, the ease of use and the easy of cleaning. Please read the paint review for a full description of them.
After the painting was done I sprayed a coat of Tru-Color Gloss, and again, I am very impressed by the quality of it. A single coat was enough to have a great glossy finish in preparation for the decals.
Decaling itself went without issues as well. The decals are printed by Eduard and have nothing to envy to the aftermarket decal makers. Great color definition, in registry and they can handle some gentle tugging as you move them around to be properly placed. I didn't even need to use a setting solution!
After letting the decals set I applied a Tamiya enamel panel line wash to bring up all that nice surface detail. There was no reaction between the enamel panel line wash and the Tru-Color Gloss coat. You can use them together without any concern.
I was in the home stretch, with just the propeller (made up of 3 independent blades, make sure all of them have the same pitch) and the landing gear left to work with. Painting the wheels was again very easy as masks are provided.
Assembly of the landing gear was straightforward, but attaching it to the airplane not so much. The locating pins are handed (good engineering there, to prevent mix-up of left and right gear) but the attachment is a bit on the weak side. You might want to consider adding a metal pin and a tiny bit amount of superglue for a stronger landing gear. Let me be clear, it is not a flimsy landing gear as designed. It is a delicate one. If you are careful with handling you will be fine.
The final step was a flat coat and to glue the doors and canopy in place. As the airplane operated out of Guadalcanal I simulated distress paint by a liberal application of pastel chalk, mainly light grey, yellows and tans.
In summary, this is a good model. It might be 20-year old but the plastic is as good as if new. The surface detail is appropriate and can compete with newer molds. I did have an issue with the wing roots. Not sure if it my mistake or the molds. Either way, it was not difficult to resolve. The landing gear is a bit on the delicate side. Consider using some pins to strength it.
I would summarize my experience as "I had fun with it and I would build another one".
Recommended with the noted issues.
I would like to thank Eduard Models and IPMS/USA for the review sample.
This is a review of a base which is made of finely molded piece of medium grey resin base. I thoroughly enjoyed working with this diorama base. Unlike many of the bases I have previously worked with, the Tiger Werke base is (a) reasonably priced, (b) lays flat on the table without having to be sanded or otherwise manipulated, (c) takes a variety of paints and or primers (I used an acrylic by Mission Models, though I also tested a small patch with both Alclad's Lacquer and their Aqua Clear Gloss--both of which worked very well), (d) finished up with a patch work mosaic pattern of what to my mind resembles a cobblestone pattern and (e) used a number of Vallejo Model colors to paint the individual tile pieces. I suspect there is a multitude of cobblestone designs or patterns available, all the way from what I tried to represent to dusty or very dirty street scenes (see color and pattern notes below).
Also, worth mentioning, I could not find any scale or size references for the Tiger Werke bases. I have displayed my base with a 1/35th scale Takom Panther Ausf. D. in what I see is a typical European street scene.
From my observations, this base is a bit unusual in that there are two features somewhat unusual: the raised curb stone area and the modern metal sewer manhole cover. Both are great additions to the surface detail though the later detail is clearly more modern than I witnessed in my several visits across Western Europe. What does this mean? In my opinion, this cobblestone street scene can be used to portray typical scenes from western Europe, the middle east, northern Africa, Disneyland, and any number of other foreign locations by merely changing the color of the stones, sidewalk or the man-hole cover.
This base comes with several 'Hints & Tips' including these caveats:
- All resin items should be washed with warm water and adding a few drops of detergent. Let air dry.
- When sanding, grinding, or drilling resin, wear a particle mask or a NIOSH respirator approved for dust. It is important not to inhale the resin dust, which could potentially cause an allergic reaction.
- Wear safety goggles. If you are wearing a dust mask or respirator, you need to be wearing goggles as well. They are also necessary if you are working with power tools and resin, such as when drilling, sanding or polishing.
- The use of a suitable primer is recommended for bonding purposes. CA glue or epoxies need to be used for resin items.
- Not suitable for children.
Because of the huge number of stonework patterns and the wide variety of colors for such cobblestone, I would suggest diving into the literally thousands of photo images available on the internet. I recommend that you begin your research with such sites as 'European cobblestone patterns' on Google.Overall Evaluation
I am impressed with this Tiger Werke cobblestone street base and recommend its use to enhance your dioramas. It can serve as the corner stone for a simple diorama base or with the addition of added vegetation, grass, sand or simple resin pieces and details I can imagine a more extensive diorama scene. I want to thank both Tiger Werke Resin and IPMS-USA for the opportunity to review this base.